Suoi Giang is a highland commune in Van Chan district in Yen Bai province, located 1,400 meters above sea water level. The land is compared to Sa Pa, Tam Dao and Da Lat because of its fresh, cool climate year round. Visitors to Suoi Giang can enjoy the specialty tea called Shan Tuyet from ancient tea trees that are hundreds of years old.

Locals said among the ancient tea trees, the 500-year-old Shan Tuyet tree No003, which belongs to Nguyen Quang Hoang in Suoi Giang commune, is the most beautiful tree in the region with a large canopy.

Song A Pao, the caregiver of the tree, said white tea products can sell at VND2.5 million per kilogram, while brown tea, the cheapest product, is priced at VND350,000 per kilogram.

Every day, Pao has to examine the tree to find if there are termites. He removes most of the tea berries to concentrate nutrients and feed the buds.

“It’s not difficult to take care of the tree, because we don’t use any chemicals or fertilizer,” Pao said. “I just need to be sure there are no termites and to let the tree grow naturally with the local climate conditions.”

According to Pao, the tree can be harvested three times a year with average yield of 10 kilograms each time. When harvest time comes, Pao places scaffolding around the tree and picks tea buds carefully to avoid touching the tree canopy.

“The older the tea tree is, the more valuable tea products will be,” Pao explained.

To pick young tea buds, he often has to climb to high branches. With the high altitude of Suoi Giang land, there is often little sun in winter. On summer mornings, tea buds are covered in mist, and hands feel biting cold.

After harvest, fresh tea buds are classified to make different tea products. White tea is the most precious product as it is created from the only one bud with a white color.

Shan Tuyet tea buds are grey-white in color, and dried in a pan with skillful hands of the Mong ethnic minority people.

When drying, people have to use their naked hands and touch the hot pan to estimate temperature and need to be sure that the fire is stable. After that, dried tea leaves are rubbed by hand. 

Phan Dau