The lead-up to Doan Ngo Festival sees a bustling trade in "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaves in Quang Nam, where farmers rake in significant earnings.

These leaves, used to brew a special beverage for the festival, have become a lucrative source of income for many.

The "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaf water, renowned for its therapeutic properties, is a concoction of various Vietnamese medicinal plants, boasting a blend of bitter, astringent, sour, and sweet flavors. This traditional remedy, revered for its purifying effects on the body, is deeply ingrained in local culture.

Tra Doa village, nestled in Binh Dao commune, Thang Binh district, stands out as a hub for these leaves. As the festival approaches, traders descend upon the village to stock up, driving a thriving market.

Mr. Do Van Lai, a local farmer, shared insights into the meticulous process of cultivating medicinal plants, emphasizing the village's centuries-old tradition of leaf cultivation. Despite the labor-intensive nature of leaf cultivation, with careful nurturing and attention to detail, farmers like Mr. Lai reap significant rewards.

This practice, steeped in tradition, has endured for centuries in Tra Doa village. Nearly 100 villagers embark on planting these leaves every mid-December, nurturing them until they're ready for harvest in early June.

While the process isn't overly complex, it demands meticulous care to ensure a bountiful yield. Each plant has its own requirements, and factors like soil quality, sunlight exposure, and drainage are carefully managed to optimize growth.

For Mr. Lai, this year's harvest yielded close to 45 million VND from around 1,000sq.m of land.

Mr. Nguyen Duy Tan, another local farmer, boasts earnings of around 150 million VND from cultivating about 3,000sqm of leaves. Tan highlighted the robust demand and favorable prices for medicinal leaves in recent years. With extensive leaf cultivation on his family's land, Mr. Tan attested to the substantial income derived from leaf sales.

These leaves also provide a boon to traders like Ms. Ho Thi Dong, who diligently distributes them to markets across Thang Binh district and Tam Ky city. With decades of experience under her belt, Ms. Dong has become a seasoned player in this thriving trade.

Come festival day, families across Quang Nam will be brewing their batches of leaf-infused beverages, a tradition believed to offer respite from the year's sweltering heat. For Ms. Vo Thi Thu Thuy, this ritual is a cherished tradition passed down by her elders, one that she faithfully upholds by procuring her own bundles of leaves from Tam Ky market.

Beyond its medicinal properties, the "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaf beverage embodies a rich tapestry of memories and traditions for the people of Quang Nam. As the festival draws near, markets buzz with activity, and homes are filled with the aroma of freshly brewed leaves, ensuring that the spirit of Doan Ngo is kept alive and thriving.

Nguyen Nam's photographs capture the essence of this bustling trade, from the verdant fields of Tra Doa village to the vibrant market stalls where these prized leaves exchange hands.

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Binh Dao commune has approximately 10 hectares dedicated to cultivating medicinal leaves for sale during Doan Ngo Festival. Photo: Nguyen Nam

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People work under the sun to harvest plants for sale. Photo: Nguyen Nam

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Mr. Lai harvests the final bundles of "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaves. Photo: Nguyen Nam

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Every household is busy harvesting, sorting leaves into bundles, and weighing them for sale. Photo: Nguyen Nam

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Mrs. Dong has 52 years of experience trading "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaves. Photo: Nguyen Nam

Traders come to each house in the village to purchase "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaves at high prices. Photo: Nguyen Nam

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From Tra Doa village, "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaves are transported everywhere. Photo: Nguyen Nam

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"5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaves are an indispensable "brand" of drink for Quang people during the Doan Ngo festival. Photo: Nguyen Nam

The Doan Ngo Festival, also known as "Tết giết sâu bọ" or "Festival for Killing the persons' inner insects," holds a pivotal position in Vietnam's cultural calendar.

The name "Tết giết sâu bọ" originates from its association with the agricultural cycle, as farmers utilize this occasion to eradicate pests and commence planting for the upcoming season. The festival falls on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month, symbolizing the start of a new agricultural cycle.

Traditionally, families rise early on this day to consume fermented sticky rice and fruits, believed to cleanse the body of undesirable "parasites." Worship ceremonies are conducted at noon, marking the hour of the Ngo.

Two iconic dishes of Doan Ngo Festival are banh u and com ruou or "rice wine," consists of small balls of fermented rice soaked in wine. 

For people in Quang Nam, "5th Day of the 5th Lunar Month" leaf drink is very popular during the festival.

Nguyen Nam