Ahead of God of Wealth Day, the “capital” of grilled snakehead fish on Tan Ky Tan Quy Street in Tan Son Nhi Ward, Ho Chi Minh City, blazes day and night, thick with smoke as vendors rush to prepare orders for customers.

On the night of February 25, the 9th day of the first lunar month, shops along Tan Ky Tan Quy kept their charcoal fires glowing, smoke rising into the air as workers tended row upon row of fish.

It takes around 30 to 40 minutes to produce a batch of fragrant, properly grilled snakehead fish. Prices on God of Wealth Day remain unchanged from regular days, ranging from VND180,000 to VND220,000 per fish (US$7 - US$8.80), depending on size.

As they grill, workers constantly turn the fish and gently tap them to remove scales and charred skin, preserving the golden flesh inside and preventing any bitter taste. Using a bamboo stick or wooden rod, they lightly strike the body so that scales and ash fall away easily, making it quicker to scrape off the burnt outer layer after grilling.

Each fish is stuffed with a stick of sugarcane through its mouth to keep the body straight, preventing it from curling or cracking under heat. The sugarcane also helps the fish cook evenly, makes turning easier and adds a subtle fragrance.

Le Duc Duong, 59, who has run a grilled snakehead shop for 14 years, said he imported around 1,000 to 2,000 fish for this year’s God of Wealth Day, less than half of last year’s volume. To serve customers in time, he and his staff began preparing and cleaning the fish a day in advance to ensure quick sales and avoid long waits.

From the sheets of foil used to wrap each fish and retain heat on the journey home, to the bags of rice vermicelli, fresh herbs and fermented fish sauce served alongside, everything is prepared in advance, ready for customers.

Ngoc Trinh, who lives in Tan Binh Ward, said she returns to this street every year, always to the same familiar stall. This year, she came early to avoid the main day’s crowds and to comfortably choose the fish she preferred.

Shop assistants worked through the night to ensure enough grilled fish would be ready for customers early on the morning of February 26.

Thousands of grilled snakehead fish were lined up, ready for sale on God of Wealth Day.

Grilled snakehead fish is widely chosen by southern households as a ritual offering, symbolizing perseverance and upward striving in business. Roasted whole, the fish represents completeness and abundance. From a rustic riverland dish, it has gradually become a familiar custom each God of Wealth Day.

Tuan Hung