At the opening night of the Ho Chi Minh City Ao Dai Festival, the collection Heritage Threads by designer Vu Thao Giang, an ethnic Tay designer, opened a special journey where heritage fibers thousands of years old are revived and lead the way toward Vietnam’s aspirations for sustainable fashion.
The collection forms a symphony of distinctive fibers from across Vietnam: pure lotus silk extracted from lotus stems; shimmering traditional silk; soft banana fiber reclaimed from banana trunks - once considered agricultural waste; durable pineapple fiber made from discarded leaves in a zero-waste approach; along with ramie, linen, jute and bamboo fibers. All are biodegradable, quickly renewable and environmentally friendly.
All materials are processed using traditional handmade techniques such as steaming and boiling, methods that preserve the spirit of natural colors - rustic, close to nature yet still lustrous and resilient over time.
The most striking highlight of the collection is lotus silk - one of the most expensive natural fibers in the world, often called “the last jewel in the world of natural textiles”. This fiber belongs to the luxury segment, comparable to guanaco and qiviut, surpassed only by vicuna - the most expensive fiber on Earth - and the extremely rare shahtoosh.
The lotus silk used in Heritage Threads is not the common variety. It is extracted from the stems of Quan Am lotus flowers at the exact moment when the blossoms are at their most beautiful early stage in the fourth lunar month - the season of Buddha’s Birthday. This fiber is exceptionally pure, requiring tens of thousands of fresh lotus stems. The spinning process is carried out entirely by hand over several months, producing only a very limited yield.
Because of its rarity and exclusivity, lotus silk carries within it the spirit of the land, the water and the spiritual beliefs of the Vietnamese people.
The collection unfolds in layered harmony among different textile traditions, creating a rich and cohesive aesthetic space.
The first layer reflects folk simplicity with deep indigo fabrics embodying the soul of ethnic communities, alongside woven and embroidered brocade rich in regional motifs - intimate and authentic like the breath of the earth and sky.
The second layer evokes elegance and sophistication with shimmering silk, soft gauze silk, luminous velvet gauze and luxurious brocade, radiating refined nobility.
The third layer reveals a mysterious royal atmosphere, where Sa Nam woven fabrics featuring patterns such as ngu phuc chau tho and thuy ba wave motifs shimmer like the golden rivers of ancient dynasties.
The collection is the result of collaboration among generations of artisans from traditional craft villages. Each ao dai is completed through meticulous hand embroidery, elaborate embellishment and culturally rich brocade stitching.
Artisan Phan Thi Thuan - the pioneer who successfully wove Vietnamese lotus silk in My Duc, Hanoi - plays a central role in the project. Artisan Le Dang Toan from La Khe village in Hanoi continues to preserve traditional gauze silk and Sa Nam weaving techniques. Artisan Nong Thi Thuoc from Luong Noi in Cao Bang contributes the essence of ethnic brocade.
The project also draws on the craftsmanship of villages in Nam Cao and Quat Dong (Hanoi), Vu Thu (Thai Binh) and brocade artisans in Lao Cai.
Running throughout the collection is a consistent commitment to sustainability. All materials are natural and biodegradable, agricultural by-products are fully utilized to reduce waste, and the production process follows a zero-waste philosophy without harmful chemicals.
The project also supports the livelihoods of craft village artisans while contributing to the preservation of traditional handicrafts that are gradually fading away.



Designer Vu Thu Giang receives flowers from the organizers of the Ho Chi Minh City Ao Dai Festival and poses with models presenting the collection.













The collection is the result of collaboration among generations of artisans from traditional craft villages.
Photos: Courtesy of the artist