Mrs. Saphia, the fourth-generation matriarch of a traditional Cham brocade weaving workshop in Chau Phong commune, An Giang province, is more than just a skilled artisan. She is a cultural torchbearer, mentoring the fifth generation to carry on her family’s heritage.

The Cham ethnic community in Chau Phong, home to over 5,000 people across the Phum Soai, Chau Giang, and Hoa Long hamlets, practices Islam and is renowned for its heritage architecture, including the national-level Mubarak Mosque. It is also known for the long-standing tradition of brocade weaving, a vital part of preserving local cultural identity.

A legacy woven through time

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Saphia presents a traditional Cham wedding outfit. Photo: Tran Tuyen

Now 47 years old, Saphia was born into a family of six siblings but is the only one to continue the ancestral trade. At the age of seven, she began learning from her grandmother how to spin thread, dye fabric, and weave intricate patterns.

“To create a quality piece of brocade, you have to go through many meticulous steps - soaking the thread, bleaching, pattern making, dyeing, rinsing, drying, winding, warping, and finally weaving,” she explained.

The Cham people’s dyeing methods are especially unique, using natural ingredients such as tree sap (klek), bark (pahud), and mac nua fruit. These natural dyes give the fabric vivid colors that resist fading over time and even develop a glossier finish.

Weaving culture into cloth

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Saphia is the fourth-generation weaver in Chau Phong. Photo: Tran Tuyen

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Sarongs are an essential item in Cham men’s attire. Photo: Tran Tuyen

Cham brocade patterns from Chau Phong retain their traditional motifs such as hammocks, spindles, fans, zigzags, and floral designs - all inspired by nature and daily life. Each design is a testament to the creativity and dexterity of Cham women, with every finished piece representing patience, persistence, and cultural pride.

Popular items produced in Saphia’s workshop include sarongs and checkered scarves, priced between $2.40 and $8.20. She also makes bags, backpacks, hats, and wedding attire - items especially favored by foreign tourists as meaningful souvenirs.

“Brocade weaving is not just a means of earning a living. It is the soul of our community,” Saphia shared, reflecting on nearly 40 years dedicated to the craft.

Passing the thread to the next generation
Shakina continues her family’s weaving tradition. Photo: Tran Tuyen

She has also passed on the tradition to her granddaughter, Shakina, who began learning the art at age 12. Now 17, Shakina has become an accomplished artisan in her own right, crafting refined brocade pieces for daily use and preserving the family's legacy.

In 2023, the Cham brocade weaving tradition in Chau Phong was officially recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage, a well-deserved acknowledgment of its cultural and artistic value.

Recently, the Cham community in Chau Phong formed a cooperative of 12 households to develop community-based tourism. The initiative aims to link local families, support sustainable cultural preservation, and generate economic benefits for the community.

Tran Tuyen