Unlike traditional pho, which is served with a hot, clear broth, Lao Cai's unique dish, known as 'Con Sui' (or 'dry pho'), comes with a thick, tangy sauce, sliced char siu, eggs, crispy noodles, and a host of other ingredients.
Con Sui, originally a dish brought by the Hoa people, has gradually become a popular part of Lao Cai's culinary scene.
Hoa, who runs a popular restaurant in Lao Cai city specializing in Con Sui, explains that the dish comprises several key ingredients, including pho noodles, sliced char siu, eggs, crispy noodles, aromatic herbs, and scallions.
Unlike traditional pho, Con Sui is served with a thick, soup-like sauce that has a distinct red color, derived from gac fruit.
"The noodles used in Con Sui are slightly thicker, wider, and chewier than standard pho noodles. This dish is also known as 'dry pho' because it is served with a sauce rather than a broth," shared Hoa.
According to Hoa, making a delicious bowl of Con Sui is a labor-intensive process, often taking up to 10-12 hours to prepare the ingredients.
The most time-consuming part is the preparation of the sauce. The broth for the sauce is simmered from bones for half a day, along with various herbs and spices.
Chefs have to carefully monitor the sauce to ensure it is clear, aromatic, and has the perfect consistency.
The char siu, a key component of the dish, is marinated in a special sauce containing gac fruit, giving it a vibrant red color. The meat is first simmered to cook through and then fried to create a crispy exterior while retaining a tender, juicy interior.
The dish's defining feature is the crispy noodles served alongside, made from a dough of flour and sugar. The dough is rolled thin, cut into long strands, and deep-fried until golden and crunchy.
According to Hoa, the crispy noodles can vary from place to place, sometimes made from taro or sweet potato. The ingredients and flavors of Con Sui may differ slightly between restaurants, depending on their unique recipes.
When served, diners can add a squeeze of lime, roasted peanuts, fresh herbs, a sprinkle of pepper, or even pickled mustard greens to their bowl before mixing everything together.
Many diners who have tried Con Sui describe it as a delightful change from typical pho, with a taste that perfectly blends a variety of textures and flavors. The soft, chewy noodles mix harmoniously with the thick, aromatic sauce, enhanced by the crunch of peanuts and the savory notes of char siu.
Thao Trinh