By 11pm, District 6's streets sparkle with colors, the usual daytime noise having quieted down. The air is filled with the special aroma from a broken rice restaurant that operates exclusively at night.

This unassuming restaurant, located on the corner of Hau Giang Street, emits an inviting fragrance of grilled meat. Diners sit tightly around plastic tables set up on the sidewalk, while others line up on the street, waiting for their turn.

Surrounded by customers, Mr. To Huu Nghia (62 years old) tirelessly scoops rice and assembles plates. For 37 years, his restaurant has maintained a steady flow of patrons, earning its reputation as the most famous night-time broken rice spot in Ho Chi Minh City.

The restaurant lacks a formal name, with Mr. Nghia affectionately referring to it as "broken rice in hell," a nickname given by customers from its early days.

"I started selling broken rice at night 37 years ago, initially at 3am, gradually shifting to an earlier time. Now, we open from 10:30pm to around 3am," Mr. Nghia explained. "Because we operate so late, people jokingly called it the 'broken rice restaurant in hell.' That's how the name stuck."

Mr. Nghia considered daytime operation but realized that the competition would be stiff. Nighttime sales offered a cooler, more relaxed environment, catering to night shift workers, late-night wanderers, and early market traders. Even after the market moved, his unique flavor and delicious food maintained a loyal customer base.

The restaurant serves high-quality broken rice with side dishes like grilled ribs, pork skin, sausage, pork floss, Chinese sausage, fried eggs, braised eggs, and more. Each plate costs between 30,000 to over 100,000 VND.

Mr. Nghia personally seasons the dishes, with the grilled ribs prepared using a secret recipe. The ribs are cooked to perfection, remaining fragrant and tender. The restaurant’s dipping sauce is also highly praised for its unique flavor.

Mr. Nghia starts grilling ribs at dusk, with his family preparing other dishes. By 10:30pm, the restaurant opens, quickly filling with customers. As the night progresses, the restaurant becomes even busier, with staff hustling to prepare take-out orders.

The restaurant caters to a variety of customers, including night workers, bar-goers, and party enthusiasts. It has also become a popular spot for small families seeking a late-night meal.

Ms. Tran Nhat Ha (37 years old), Mr. Nghia’s daughter-in-law, has helped at the restaurant for 12 years. She noted that many artists and celebrities frequent the restaurant, including comedians Tran Thanh, Viet Huong, actress Ngo Thanh Van, and singer Truong Quynh Anh.

"We have no signboard, yet many celebrities come to enjoy our food. Overseas Vietnamese also make it a point to visit, seeking a taste of home after many years abroad," Ms. Ha shared.

At nearly 2am, while Hau Giang Street quiets down, Mr. Nghia's "ghost" broken rice restaurant remains bustling. Mrs. Tran My (60 years old) shared that she has been a patron for 20 years. After spending a year in Nghe An, she returned to enjoy her favorite dish.

"My husband and I used to eat here every night. Now, even though I’m alone, I keep this habit. Eating here makes me feel like I’m reliving the past," Mrs. My confided.