By 5:30 a.m., the fish market in Nghi Son fishing village in Thanh Hoa is already buzzing, as basket boats come ashore and eager vendors greet baskets brimming with freshly caught seafood.

A bustling market at daybreak

Nghi Son fishing village's fish market begins to come alive between 5:45 and 7 a.m., when fishermen return from their trips at sea with baskets of seafood still fresh from the water.

Men and young fishermen deftly paddle their round basket boats toward shore, carrying the morning's catch. The moment a boat touches land, traders and local residents quickly gather around, picking out the seafood they want and bargaining over prices.

Trays of fish and squid, large and small, are brought ashore one after another. Traders swiftly inspect the catch, pack it in ice to preserve its freshness, then load it onto vehicles for distribution. Seafood intended for local residents and visitors is displayed for sale right at the market.

Most people at the morning market are women. Following a longstanding local custom, men head out to sea while women stay ashore waiting for the catch, then take charge of sorting and selling it. Alongside seafood buyers, others make a living carrying and sorting fish or offering services such as steaming seafood and packing purchases for customers.

Trading moves quickly because seafood is sold almost as soon as it comes off the boats. The market usually remains lively until around 7:30 a.m., after which the crowds gradually thin out.

Compared with better-known seafood markets in central Vietnam such as Tam Tien, Ly Son or Mui Ne, Nghi Son fish market does not offer quite as wide a variety. What it does have, however, is remarkably fresh seafood at reasonable prices.

August is peak squid season in these waters, and baskets filled with different varieties - including small squid, tube squid and egg-bearing squid - arrive at the market almost continuously. Fresh off the boats, the squid still glisten, their pigment spots flickering in the early morning sunlight as their tentacles gently twitch inside the baskets.

Squid is also the market's most abundant offering, priced at VND100,000-300,000 ($3.80-11.40) per kilogram, depending on the variety and size. Visitors buying larger quantities of around 5-10 kilograms may be able to negotiate slightly lower prices.

Other seafood includes mantis shrimp at around VND350,000 ($13.30) per kilogram, red frog crab at VND90,000-150,000 ($3.40-5.70), barracuda at VND80,000 ($3) per kilogram, fresh mackerel at VND150,000-200,000 ($5.70-7.60), swimming crab at VND300,000 ($11.40) per kilogram for a size of about five crabs, and mud crab at around VND500,000 ($19) per kilogram, although supplies are limited.

Local sellers and traders generally quote reasonable prices and are happy to advise customers on their choices.

Many stalls offer freezing, packing, steaming and boiling services, making it convenient for travelers to take seafood home. Some also sell fish sauce, dried squid and dried fish for visitors looking for local specialties as gifts.

Nghi Son fish market is only a few kilometers from Bai Dong Beach. Over the past four years, Bai Dong has become increasingly popular with travelers for its unspoiled, peaceful scenery, clear seawater and fresh, reasonably priced seafood. Visiting the fish market early in the morning is among the experiences that draw travelers staying at Bai Dong.

From Hanoi, travelers can reach Bai Dong in around 3.5 hours by private car, or about four hours by limousine van or coach. While it lacks the bustle and extensive amenities of Sam Son or Hai Tien, Bai Dong offers an attractive beach along with striking sunrise and sunset views.

Visitors can spend two days and one night or three days and two nights exploring the area. Beyond swimming, they can visit the fishing village, church and lighthouse, while making time to enjoy seafood, sip coffee and take in the sea views.

Those with more time can combine their trip with a tour of Bung Island, where they can go fishing, take a boat ride, see coral and enjoy local cuisine.

Linh Trang