A small eatery on Hoang Van Thu Street in Nam Dinh City, known for its traditional xôi xíu (sticky rice with char siu pork), has stood the test of time, operating for 60–70 years through three generations of the same family.
Ngo Tuan Anh, 40, now runs the family business as its third-generation owner. The dish was first introduced by his grandfather, who sold it for 20–30 years before passing the trade to his daughter, Tuan Anh’s mother, Nguyen Thi Ha.
Now 71 years old, Mrs. Ha has been serving xôi xíu for nearly 40 years. While she still helps with sales, most of the cooking is handled by Tuan Anh, who has been involved in the family business since his teenage years.
“I started helping my mom when I was 14 or 15. Apart from a few years in Saigon for other work, I’ve been selling xôi xíu alongside her ever since,” he shared.
Nam Dinh locals know the stall as the go-to spot for xôi xíu, but the menu includes a variety of toppings such as pate, char siu pork, pork floss (ruốc), sausages, and lap cheong, all served with fragrant sticky rice.
The two standout features of this dish are the sticky rice itself and the sauce. Tuan Anh revealed that the rice is made using Hải Hậu sticky rice, cooked in two stages for optimal texture.
“The rice is kept warm in the steamer all day, ensuring it stays soft and chewy, which pairs perfectly with the savory toppings,” he explained.
The sauce is the true star of the dish, captivating diners for decades. Made from pork bone broth and a blend of secret spices, the thick, glossy sauce is drizzled generously over the rice.
“Everyone loves the sauce. Many customers specifically request extra when ordering. While anyone can make the char siu, our sauce is what makes the dish unique,” Tuan Anh said confidently.
Despite its modest size, the stall requires a team of seven people to run smoothly - four manage sales while three handle cooking at home.
A standard serving of xôi xíu thập cẩm (mixed toppings) costs 20,000 VND, with larger portions priced at 30,000–40,000 VND.
The stall operates all day, but mornings and evenings are the busiest times. On weekends, customers often queue for up to 30 minutes for their turn.
“Business isn’t as bustling as it used to be, as people now have more food options,” Tuan Anh noted.
In addition to xôi xíu, the stall offers homemade chè (sweet soup) and steamed buns, all made in-house. Each day, they sell hundreds of buns alongside their sticky rice dishes.
The recipes remain unchanged from Tuan Anh’s grandfather’s era, with everything still made from scratch. The only additions are bakery items such as bread and cakes, which Tuan Anh sources from local suppliers.
Tuan Anh plans to open a xôi xíu stall in Hanoi soon.
“In my grandfather’s time, the rice was cooked over coal stoves. Everyone in Nam Dinh knew about Mr. Hong’s xôi xíu. Back then, he also made dried beef for nộm bò khô (green papaya salad with beef jerky),” Tuan Anh recounted.
Now committed to carrying on the family legacy, Tuan Anh plans to expand the business beyond Nam Dinh.
“I once opened a xôi xíu stall in Hanoi, and it did very well within just a month. However, due to issues with the rental space, I had to close and return to Nam Dinh. I plan to try again soon,” he revealed.