Rain, punctures and powerful coastal winds could not stop three retired teachers nearing 70 from completing a 2,300km motorbike journey across Vietnam.
Whenever they look back on their 2,300km motorbike journey from Dong Thap to Hanoi, Hong Thu and her two closest friends still feel a deep sense of happiness - and more than a little pride.
Vo Thi Hong Thu, born in 1958, is a retired lecturer who taught at Tien Giang University in Dong Thap Province. Her two close friends, Bui Thi Minh Hong, born in 1959, and Nguyen Thi Doi, born in 1958, also spent their careers working in education in Dong Thap.
Since they were young, the three friends have often traveled together by motorbike during holidays and Lunar New Year breaks. Their favorite destinations included Da Lat, known for its cool, fresh climate, and the river-laced provinces of Vietnam’s Mekong Delta.
After retirement, Thu and her two friends continued to meet regularly and take motorbike trips together. After years of traveling relatively close to home, they began dreaming of a longer adventure — one that would allow them to experience the roads stretching from southern to northern Vietnam while visiting old friends in Hanoi.
In February 2025, the three retired teachers decided to make that dream a reality, setting off from Dong Thap on a cross-country motorbike journey to Hanoi.
A determined 2,300km journey
Thu, in purple, Doi, in red, and Hong during a stop in Hue.
The three women, all approaching 70, began their journey in the former My Tho City. Thu rode one motorbike throughout the trip and carried most of the luggage, while Hong and Doi took turns riding the other.
On their first day, they covered about 280km from My Tho to Phan Thiet before following coastal roads northward. Their longest single-day stretch was the 300km ride from Quy Nhon to Hoi An.
Thu said the two motorbikes were thoroughly serviced before departure. The three friends paid for the journey with money they had saved from their pensions.
“We agreed on several rules: never ride faster than 60km/h, always stay in the lane designated for motorbikes and never push ourselves just to keep up with the schedule. About every 50km, we would stop to rest, drink some water and have a light snack,” Thu said.
Along with lightweight clothing, the women packed a small kettle so they could prepare warm water, milk or ginger tea in the mornings. Along the way, they stopped at supermarkets to buy eggs, milk and other food to supplement meals eaten at roadside restaurants. Hong also carried some dry provisions for stretches where food outlets might be difficult to find.
Of the 19 days it took them to travel from Dong Thap to Hanoi, they spent 12 days riding long distances and used the remaining time to rest and explore places along the route.
“The journey became difficult because we encountered heavy rain on many days. When we reached the Hai Van Pass area in particular, the rain was so intense and the road so slippery that motorbikes were not allowed over the pass. We had to buy transfer tickets, load the bikes onto a truck and take a bus through the Hai Van Tunnel ourselves. That was quite a disappointment,” Thu recalled.
During the journey, the three women twice mistakenly entered roads leading toward expressways, where motorbikes are prohibited. The first incident happened near Phan Thiet, where a traffic worker spotted them and directed them back. The second occurred around the Cau Gie–Phap Van area, where a local resident working by the roadside noticed what was happening, called out to them and showed them the correct route.
“We used Google Maps, but sometimes the directions were not very clear. Fortunately, local people were kind and always willing to help us,” Thu said.
The friends also encountered punctures, flat tires and powerful winds while riding along the coast. Through every setback, they encouraged one another and remained focused on completing the journey safely.
“When we finally reached Hanoi after safely covering 2,300km, we were incredibly happy. There was also a sense of pride in knowing that we had achieved our goal without giving up halfway,” Thu said.
Pride in the beauty of their homeland
The three friends stopped at many scenic destinations during their cross-country motorbike journey.
Despite unfavorable weather during their trip to Fansipan, Thu and her friends were delighted to reach the summit.
The six friends amid blooming pear trees in Tuyen Quang. Photos courtesy of the interviewees.
Of all the roads they traveled across Vietnam, Thu was most impressed by provincial road DT701, regarded as one of the country’s most beautiful coastal routes. Winding between rocky mountains and the blue sea, the road unfolds through a succession of bends against a largely untouched landscape.
The three friends stopped at an elevated rest point to admire the sea and take photographs before continuing. Not long afterward, however, the weather turned against them and powerful winds swept across the road. Riding alone on a motorbike loaded with luggage, Thu had to lean forward close to the handlebars to reduce the force of the wind. Hong and Doi’s motorbike was steadier because the two were riding together.
After arriving in Hanoi, the three friends rested for two days before continuing their journey through northern Vietnam. Three more friends joined them - two from Hanoi and another who flew in from Ho Chi Minh City.
Because the newcomers were not accustomed to long-distance motorbike travel, the group hired a seven-seat vehicle with a professional driver. Together, they traveled through Tuyen Quang, Lao Cai, Cao Bang, Thai Nguyen and Son La.
One of Thu’s most memorable experiences was reaching the summit of Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest mountain. The group went up in the afternoon, when light rain was falling and temperatures were low. After traveling by cable car and funicular railway, they still had to walk up wet and slippery stone steps.
The six friends repeatedly reminded one another to hold on to the railings, move slowly and take care. When they finally reached the top, everyone was delighted to have fulfilled their wish of standing on the summit of Fansipan.
The group also visited Hong Thai in Tuyen Quang during pear blossom season. Standing among old pear trees covered in brilliant white flowers was an emotional experience for the travelers from southern Vietnam.
“After returning to Hanoi and resting for several days, we sent our motorbikes south and took the train back to Ho Chi Minh City. From there, we rode the motorbikes home, bringing our month-long journey to an end,” Thu said.
According to Thu, completing a long motorbike journey requires more than good health and confident riding skills. It also requires companions who understand one another, share the same determination and genuinely look after each other.
“Whenever we faced difficulties, instead of complaining, we always encouraged one another, looked for a solution and found a way through,” she said.
The three friends are now planning their second cross-country journey after the 2027 Lunar New Year to celebrate turning 70.