Ro Fi Ah, 34, runs a Cham-style beef pho stall in Chau Doc, An Giang. As a follower of Islam, she explained that the Cham people abstain from pork and observe dietary laws shaped by their faith, especially during Ramadan.  

“Our culinary traditions are deeply influenced by our religion. Even the preparation of dishes follows specific rules,” she said.  

Her stall has been open for several years, and she takes pride in preparing her dishes with care.  

For her pho, Ro Fi Ah uses bò cỏ (free-range grass-fed cattle), which are naturally raised and known for their firm texture and sweet flavor.  

"Cham people only buy beef from Cham sellers to ensure the quality. Injected water can reduce the beef’s flavor and shrink its volume when cooked," she noted, adding that she typically sources and processes her own cattle locally.  

The broth is the heart of her pho, simmered for 15 hours with a mix of beef bones, including femur bones, rib bones, and xương giá (a fan-shaped bone from the front leg).  

“The long simmering time allows all the natural sweetness and richness to infuse the broth,” she explained.  

To enhance the flavor, the broth includes roasted onions, garlic, ginger, galangal, and rễ mùi (cilantro roots). She also adds sugarcane and a blend of toasted spices like star anise, cinnamon, and cloves for an aromatic depth.  

Seasonings like sea salt and rock sugar are carefully measured to suit the Cham palate, creating a broth that is naturally sweet and savory.  

The process extends beyond the broth, requiring precision with every ingredient. Ro Fi Ah uses various cuts of beef such as brisket, flank, chuck, shank, and front leg.  

"Each cut requires a specific cooking time. You need experience to know when to remove it from the pot," she said. For rare beef, she uses tender cuts like fillet or hind leg for a melt-in-your-mouth texture.  

The bowl is completed with diverse toppings like beef balls, tendons, and the cuts of beef, making the dish hearty and satisfying. 

Cham cuisine, including beef pho, reflects the resourcefulness of using local ingredients like beef, palm sugar, or rock sugar combined with spices like garlic, pepper, and lemongrass.  

“The artistry of Cham women lies in creating traditional dishes that are not only visually appealing but also leave a lasting impression with their flavors,” she said.  

Thai Lam, a regular customer at Ro Fi Ah’s stall, praised the unique qualities of her pho, particularly the special beef pho priced at 50,000 VND per bowl.  

“The Cham pho has its own distinct flavor. The broth is sweet and fragrant with rock sugar and herbs, and the portions are generous with a variety of fresh ingredients,” he said.  

Thao Trinh