Located in what was once central Bac Giang City, the ward is a hub for traditional food, home to long-standing eateries serving local favorites like steamed rice rolls, porridge hotpot, grilled pork noodles, crab vermicelli, and fried spring rolls. But among these offerings, one particular dish stands out during any local food tour: mi mau.

This local specialty features fresh rice noodles - or mi Chu, a specialty from Bac Giang - topped with a rich, brown-orange sauce made from field crab, sautéed ground pork, and ripe tomatoes.

It’s this combination that has earned mi mau the nickname “Vietnamese spaghetti.” The dish is typically served with grilled pork, pork patties, pickled vegetables, and a generous helping of fresh herbs like basil, coriander, lettuce, and bean sprouts. Diners can personalize their bowl with chili sauce or a dash of pepper.

The star of the dish is the sauce: thick, savory, creamy, and aromatic. When mixed, it coats each strand of soft yet chewy noodles, creating an indulgent mouthfeel. Recently, mi mau has surged in popularity on social media, often praised by young people as a “taste of childhood” and hailed as a “$0.80 delicacy that fills you up.”

In Bac Giang Ward, visitors can sample mi mau at several popular spots: Bà Luyến at 3 Dang Thi Nho, Cụ Cầu at 9 Thanh Thien, Hải Ngọc at 31 Chau Xuyen, and Thanh Trúc at the Chau Xuyen T-junction.

Hai Ngoc, born in 1979 and owner of the mi mau stall on Chau Xuyen Street, says this dish has been a staple in the community for decades. Her parents began serving mi mau around the year 2000, and she took over the business about three years ago, keeping the original menu intact - mi mau, crab noodles, and grilled pork noodles, with mi mau remaining the most beloved.

“Lately, the dish has become popular online, so we’re seeing more visitors from places like Hanoi and Hai Phong coming to Bac Giang just to try it,” she shared.

Crafting the sauce is a meticulous process. Only fresh field crabs are used, sourced through trusted vendors, then carefully cleaned, ground, and filtered. The crab meat and roe are stir-fried with aromatic shallots and seasoned before being simmered with finely chopped tomatoes. The ground pork is cooked separately with more shallots until tender, then mixed with the crab-tomato sauce.

“In the past, everything was done by hand, which was exhausting. Now, with machines, the process is much faster. Still, the key is using fresh field crabs - that’s what gives the sauce its signature aroma and sweetness. We use a generous amount of crab, even though it’s expensive now - about $6 per kilo,” she added.

Traditionally, families made the dish with mi Chu, a dried noodle from Bac Giang. But for restaurant use, many opt for fresh rice noodles, which are faster to prepare. These noodles are specially ordered, made from high-quality rice, and soak up the sauce beautifully. To enhance the experience, some versions add crispy pork cracklings for extra richness and texture.

The pork patties served alongside are made from a balanced mix of lean and fatty meat, ensuring they remain juicy and flavorful after grilling. Vendors often prepare their own pickled vegetables from kohlrabi and carrots, adding a refreshing crunch that balances the richness of the sauce.

“It doesn’t look like much, and the ingredients are simple,” said Thuy Dung, a diner visiting from Hanoi. “But the flavor is surprisingly satisfying and delicious.”

Mi mau is sold at an accessible price, ranging from $0.80 to $1.80 per bowl depending on the toppings.

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Mi mau, dubbed the “Vietnamese spaghetti,” is a beloved street food from Bac Ninh made with fresh noodles, a rich field crab and tomato sauce, and assorted toppings. Photo: An ngon Bac Giang

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Mi mau’s signature orange-brown sauce is simmered from crab roe, ground pork, and ripe tomatoes, delivering a creamy and aromatic flavor. Photo: An ngon Bac Giang

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A nostalgic taste of old Bac Giang, mi mau is often served with grilled pork, homemade pickles, and fresh herbs. Photo: Ha Vy

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First-time visitors are often surprised by the depth of flavor hidden in this humble-looking dish. Photo: Thuy Dung


Linh Trang