While its appearance might not be the most appealing and eating it can be time-consuming, this unique delicacy is highly popular in Hai Phong. Known for its tender, sweet meat and crunchy legs, it is a must-try, especially when served hot with a rich, flavorful sauce.
When discussing Hai Phong's specialties, dishes such as bánh đa cua, bánh mì cay, nem cua bể, cháo khoái, and sủi dìn come to mind. However, another local favorite, often found in traditional markets and enjoyed year-round, is giá bể xào (stir-fried sea clams).
Giá bể, also called giá biển, resembles a small mussel but is much smaller, about the size of a thumb. This mollusk, with its green shell, is commonly found in Hai Phong’s coastal areas such as Trang Cat, Do Son, and Cat Ba. It often buries itself in the sand, with its 4-5cm long legs sticking out to search for food. Inside the shell lies tender, sweet meat.
Locals say sea clams can be harvested all year, but the peak season is from June to August. During this time, it is prepared into various dishes, with stir-fried sea clams and sea clam salad being the most popular.
Nguyen Thi Hang, 52, who has been running a stir-fried sea clam stall for over 15 years on Doi Can Street, near Luong Van Can Market in Ngo Quyen District, notes that sea clams has cooling properties, making it ideal for summer dishes like clam salad. However, stir-fried sea clams is best enjoyed hot, making it a winter favorite, although many eateries serve it year-round.
Hang explains that achieving the perfect stir-fried sea clams requires a meticulous process to ensure the meat stays fresh and firm without any fishy odor. First, sea clams are scrubbed clean to remove all sand and dirt. Since they live in the sand, cleaning them is time-consuming. After cleaning, they are soaked in water for at least six hours to expel any internal dirt, then rinsed again.
The legs are then separated, while the bodies are kept whole and stir-fried with ingredients like onions, garlic, galangal, lemongrass, turmeric powder, vinegar, and various seasonings. To thicken the dish, a mixture of dong flour or cornstarch is added. The final dish is a vibrant yellow from the turmeric, with a smooth, aromatic sauce.
For the best experience, stir-fried sea clams is served hot in a small bowl with a sprinkle of lemongrass and cilantro on top. Each bowl costs around 30,000 VND.
Aside from its unique preparation, stir-fried sea clams impresses diners with its distinctive eating method. Instead of using chopsticks, spoons, or toothpicks like with other shellfish, diners use their hands and a combination of their teeth and tongue to separate the shell from the meat right in their mouth. This method allows them to savor the tender meat, the shell soaked in rich sauce, and the crunchy legs.
Many visitors admit it takes some getting used to, sometimes spending an hour to fully enjoy this famous Hai Phong specialty. However, some joke that it’s a dish worth trying for its ability to develop patience.
If you visit Hai Phong, you can easily find stir-fried sea clams at local markets like Cat Bi Market and Luong Van Can Market, with prices ranging from 30,000 to 50,000 VND per serving.
Thao Trinh