February 9 marks the 22nd day of the twelfth lunar month, one day before the traditional farewell ceremony that sends the Kitchen Gods to Heaven. In the Old Quarter, families and business owners began their rituals as early as 11 a.m., with burning of votive paper appearing along sidewalks throughout central districts.

At his family’s bar on Ta Hien Street - a bustling hotspot known for foreign foot traffic - Mr. Hoi lit a thick stack of votive US dollars. A passing tourist stopped to ask for a photo, intrigued by the unfamiliar scene.

Mr. Hoi shared that his family usually performs the ritual one or two days early to better manage time. “We always do it in the morning,” he said, “because by afternoon and evening, the whole street is packed with visitors.”

In recent years, more families have simplified their offerings. On Hang Buom Street, one homeowner quickly burned the votive paper after finishing the incense ritual. “According to tradition, Ong Cong Ong Tao must return to Heaven before noon on the 23rd,” he explained. “Doing the full feast on the exact day can be rushed, especially with the fish release ceremony in the afternoon.”

By midday, scenes of sidewalk paper burning were common along streets like Hang Bac, Hang Dao, and Ta Hien. While some used public incinerators, others conducted the burning directly on the pavement, including on Hang Bong and Tran Phu Streets.

Around lunchtime, residents also flocked to buy last-minute offerings. Many hurried home to prepare food, aiming to complete the ritual and send off the Kitchen Gods on time.

Thach Thao