Nestled in a small alley on Hai Ba Trung Street near Nam Dinh Cathedral, the Nam Thanh Bun Cha shop, also known as Bun Cha Nha Tho (Cathedral Bun Cha), has been a beloved culinary destination for generations of Nam Dinh residents.
A century-old recipe
The shop, run by 94-year-old Tran Thi Chin and her family, traces its origins back over a century.
Originally located on Vai Man Street (now Hai Ba Trung Street), the shop moved to its current location in 1991 but has retained its signature preparation methods.
A serving of bun cha (grilled pork with rice noodles) costs VND 40,000 (about $1.70) and includes pressed rice noodles, grilled pork with thinly sliced onions, a tangy dipping sauce, fresh herbs, and crunchy pickled papaya.
While the dipping sauce is flavorful, it’s the grilled pork that steals the spotlight.
The pork, made from fresh pork shoulder with a balance of lean meat and fat, is marinated using a family recipe.
It’s then grilled over charcoal to create a smoky, crispy exterior while maintaining a juicy and tender interior.
Instead of chopping, the pork is meticulously sliced thin using a knife.
Eggs are added to the marinade for extra softness and fragrance.
The meat is grilled on bamboo skewers tied with banana leaves, enhancing its flavor with the subtle aroma of bamboo.
“We’ve preserved this grilling technique for decades. It not only enhances the natural taste but also ensures even cooking while keeping the meat moist,” shared Mrs. Chin.
A bustling family business
The shop opens at 8 AM, but service begins at 11 AM and continues until 7 PM, with peak hours between 11 AM and 1 PM.
With seven family members working together, the shop produces 500–600 servings daily, with even higher numbers on weekends and holidays.
Maintaining the traditional preparation method, the team grills each batch fresh to order using handheld fans, resulting in a wait time of 20–30 minutes during busy hours.
Despite the wait, loyal patrons are undeterred.
“I always visit when I return to Nam Dinh. The wait is part of the charm, and it’s worth it for the incredible taste,” said Tran Thi Thu, a customer from Hanoi.
Preserving tradition and looking to the future
At 94, Mrs. Chin remains actively involved in the business, guiding her descendants with meticulous care.
She has begun passing the reins to her granddaughter, Tran Thi Yen, ensuring that the family’s century-old craft continues.
“Even at my age, I enjoy being part of the shop. It’s been my life, and I would miss the work and the customers terribly if I stopped,” said Mrs. Chin.
The family plans to upgrade the shop at its current location, preserving its legacy while enhancing the dining experience for future generations.
Trong Tung