Saigon’s ‘ghost rice’ shop stays open all night, serves sizzling grilled ribs

Nestled deep in a quiet alley off Dinh Tien Hoang Street in Phu Nhuan District, a humble rice plate stall - known by locals as “Com tam ma” (ghost broken rice) - serves hungry patrons from dusk until dawn.

Despite its modest setup, with nothing more than a glass display case and plastic chairs lining the alley, the eatery draws a steady stream of diners late into the night, long after surrounding shops have closed.

The shop was originally opened by Huyen, the older sister of the current owner, Tam, back in 1994 or 1995. After Huyen passed away, Tam and his wife continued the business under the same name.

Though officially known as Com Tam Huyen, the stall earned its ghostly nickname “Com tam ma” over time, due to a combination of timing and local humor.

According to Tam, part of the reason is that the shop operates all night, peaking around midnight when most others are shuttered. Another reason stems from an old mix-up involving a different rice shop with the name "Mai." At one point, the “i” in the sign fell off, leaving the word “Ma” (ghost). When that shop closed down, customers jokingly transferred the nickname to Tam’s stall - the only one still lit in the neighborhood.

Beyond the intriguing name, what keeps customers coming back is the flavor. The grilled pork ribs are large, meaty, and bursting with flavor, thanks to a carefully guarded family marinade recipe.

Before grilling, the ribs are generously marinated and then brushed with honey to give them a glistening finish and subtle sweetness. Once cooked over charcoal, the ribs turn a golden-brown color with slightly charred edges. The outside is crispy, but the inside remains juicy and tender.

The stall also serves a variety of accompaniments, including grilled chicken, shredded pork skin, steamed egg meatloaf, and fried eggs. The standout condiment is their house-made fish sauce: sweet, spicy, and impossible to forget.

Diners can eat at the alley-side tables or order takeaway. A plate of broken rice here ranges from 40,000 VND to 80,000 VND (about $1.60 to $3.20 USD), depending on the toppings.

Minh, a university student born in 2002, first came to the stall after a friend’s recommendation. She’s now a regular.

“It’s simple, just some chairs in the alley, but clean and organized. The food is flavorful, and the grilled pork is so soft and juicy,” she said. “The dipping sauce is the perfect balance of salty, sweet, and spicy. Together with the rice, it’s incredibly satisfying.”

Tam recalled that the stall had modest beginnings. During Huyen’s time, it was relatively unknown. After he and his wife took over, they struggled at first but gradually gained attention through persistence and culinary improvements.

Now, the couple starts grilling and selling at 4 p.m. and continues until 4 a.m. the next day. The stall sees a peak around 8 to 9 p.m., a lull, and then another rush after midnight.

Customers include night owls, workers finishing or starting shifts, vendors from nearby markets, and even local artists and performers seeking a late-night bite.

After being visited and praised by several celebrities, the stall gained even more popularity. To meet demand, the couple cooks three to four large bags of rice daily.

Each bag is soaked and carefully cooked in a large, thick-bottomed pot to ensure even, fluffy texture without burning.

“For 30 years, my wife and I have stayed up late and gotten up early to keep this place running,” Tam said. “Now that she’s older, she rests earlier while I stay on until closing. Then we get up again to shop for ingredients and prep for the next day.”

“Serving food at night is hard work. You need to satisfy every customer. But thanks to the loyalty and support of our diners, it feels rewarding and makes all the effort worth it.”

Tam added that the shop, previously only open in the evening, has now expanded its hours to include lunch service.