Nestled quietly at the foot of Mount Cau in An Giang province, Dong Lai Zen Monastery may appear like any other peaceful Buddhist temple. But behind its quiet façade lies a kitchen that’s been burning bright for over two decades - serving free sizzling bánh xèo to thousands of visitors from all corners of the country.

Located in Tinh Bien commune, Dong Lai was built many years ago and renovated in 1999. With its dignified architecture and tranquil surroundings, the temple is a spiritual retreat for many. Yet to the public, it’s more affectionately known by a far humbler name: the “bánh xèo pagoda.”

The nickname comes from the temple’s long-standing tradition of serving free vegan bánh xèo - crispy Vietnamese rice pancakes - to visitors. What began as a simple gesture on lunar holidays has become a full-fledged daily ritual, with thousands of pancakes served every week, all at no cost.

Venerable Thich Chon Phap, the temple’s abbot, recalled that in the early days, vegan bánh xèo were offered only on full-moon days to pilgrims who came to worship. Over time, the practice expanded to include the 29th day of each lunar month, and later to weekends. Since the early 2000s, the temple has been serving bánh xèo year-round, regardless of the day.

The number of visitors peaks during September and October, and especially during Tet. On these festive days, the temple can give away up to 4,000 bánh xèo per day. The entire operation is sustained by voluntary donations from Buddhist followers and kind-hearted benefactors.

Behind the main hall, the kitchen is in constant motion. Smoke lingers in the air as extractor fans whirl overhead. At the heart of the kitchen are three semi-circular clusters of clay stoves, each with 10 to 12 pans kept hot and ready.

On a typical day, Tuan Vu, a 42-year-old local from Tinh Bien, single-handedly mans the stoves. Moving deftly between the pans, he pours, flips, and plates dozens of pancakes every hour.

The batter is a simple mix of rice flour and coconut milk. The filling is equally humble: shredded cassava root, whole mung beans, and tofu. All the ingredients are bought with funds donated by pilgrims and well-wishers.

“Today’s a quiet day, so I’m cooking alone,” Vu shared. “But on weekends, full-moon days, or during holidays like Tet or the Vía Bà Chúa Xứ festival, we need three or four people at the stoves to keep up.”

He’s been volunteering in the temple kitchen for over ten years. “I used to work as a bricklayer and then a motorbike taxi driver,” he said. “Every time I came here, I felt the work was meaningful. So I asked to join and help.”

Each morning, he arrives at 5 AM to start the fire. From then, pancakes are made on demand. The cooking stops only when the guests stop coming, though ingredients are always stocked and ready.

The bánh xèo are served with an array of local herbs harvested from the slopes of nearby Mount Cam. Locals bring them to the temple, wash them, and lay them out so guests can help themselves.

Though the kitchen is hot, smoky, and crowded, guests are happy to wait and watch as volunteers cook each pancake with care. For many, the meal is more than just food - it’s a spiritual offering, rich with kindness and rooted in the generosity of the Mekong Delta.

“The bánh xèo are completely free,” Vu said with a smile. “But they carry something money can’t buy - sincerity.”

Vo Thanh Nam, a visitor from Phu Tan district, brought a hot pancake to his table and beamed. “It’s just a simple vegetarian dish,” he said, “but it warms the heart. We only take what we can finish. The crust is crispy, the filling is humble yet full of flavor. That’s enough to make your day.”

For over 20 years, Dong Lai’s “pancake pagoda” has served up not just food, but a sense of belonging and community - one sizzling pan at a time.