A sizzling pan, a nostalgic street cart, and a man with a curved back - every evening near Saigon’s Notre-Dame Cathedral, a long line of hungry customers forms around a small food stall run by a humble vendor known affectionately as “the hunchback uncle.”

Around 5 p.m. on Nguyen Du Street in District 1, near the cathedral, the aroma of butter, garlic, and grilled seafood begins to drift through the air. The source is a battered aluminum pan, manned by Dao Huu The, 54, whose slightly hunched frame has become a familiar and beloved sight in the neighborhood.

From hardship to hustle: A street vendor’s journey

Originally from Hue, Mr. The moved to Ho Chi Minh City in 1992 after his spinal condition worsened, leaving him feeling defeated and self-conscious. He tried various jobs - from shining shoes to tailoring - before his health forced him to slow down.

Around 1996, his older brother gave him an idea: why not sell dried squid and fish from a cart? With the gift of an old street stall, Mr. The began peddling snacks near the cathedral.

“I started pushing the cart in early 1997,” he recalls. “At first, I had 3 to 5 items - grilled dried squid, dried fish - but it was hard to sell. I’d make just enough for a bowl of rice.”

But a few years ago, his fortunes began to change. Young customers started posting about his stall on social media. Word spread quickly. Today, Mr. The sells over 10 kilograms of dried squid each night.

A one-dish wonder that keeps Saigon coming back

The dish that made him famous? Mực khô chiên nước mắm bơ tỏi - dried squid fried with butter, garlic, and fish sauce. It’s rich, aromatic, slightly sweet, and deeply satisfying.

Each portion sells for between 100,000 to 160,000 VND (about $4 to $6.50 USD), depending on portion size. His key ingredients are premium-grade dried squid (costing him about 1.3 million VND per kilo), high-quality condiments, and one strict rule: he never reuses cooking oil.

“I always use fresh oil, and I clean the pan thoroughly after each batch,” Mr. The explains. “It takes more time and money, but the flavor stays clean.”

Years of trial and error have taught him how to control the heat just right, ensuring the squid stays tender but crispy, never dry.

A smell that stops you in your tracks

At night, the line grows longer. The smell wafts across the block, drawing in curious passersby. One regular customer, Ms. Nhuong, traveled all the way from Go Vap with her child, waiting patiently despite the 30-minute queue.

“I saw this dish going viral on social media,” she said. “I love grilled squid already, and this version just smells amazing. Waiting’s not a problem - it’s fun here.”

To manage the crowd, Mr. The relies on a handwritten list. One helper records names and orders. His wife packs and hands out the food while he keeps frying.

Despite the heat and physical strain of standing by the fire for hours, he finds strength in his customers’ enthusiasm.

More than food: A memory in every bite

Vietnamese-American customer Tina Thao Ha brought a group of international friends to try the dish.

“Even plain grilled squid is delicious, but when you add butter, garlic, and fish sauce? That’s next level,” she said. “I can’t wait to tell everyone back home.”

Young locals describe the dish as “addictive” and crave-worthy - especially on cool evenings in Ho Chi Minh City. One college student said she’s a regular now.

“This is best eaten hot,” she shared. “When the night’s cool like this, it tastes even better.”

Ha Nguyen