hue relics.jpg
From above, Phu Van Lau stands prominently in the foreground, with Nghenh Luong Dinh farther away on the bank of the Perfume River. They are also the two Hue landmarks depicted on a Vietnamese banknote currently in circulation.
hue relics1.jpg
Viewed from the Perfume River, Nghenh Luong Dinh, Phu Van Lau, the Flag Tower and the Hue Imperial Citadel follow one another along an almost perfectly straight axis, creating one of the former imperial capital’s most distinctive landscapes.
hue relics2.jpg
According to the Hue Monuments Conservation Center, Phu Van Lau served several important purposes during the Nguyen Dynasty.
It was where royal decisions and policies were publicly announced, while the names of successful doctoral candidates were also posted there following the imperial examinations.
Publicly displaying the names of newly successful scholars both honored talented individuals and helped encourage the pursuit of education in society at the time.
hue relics3.jpg
Beside Phu Van Lau stands a stone stele engraved with the four characters “Khuynh cai ha ma,” reminding passers-by to lower their parasols and dismount from their horses as a gesture of respect. Behind the structure is the Flag Tower, where Vietnam’s national flag stands out against the sky.
hue relics4.jpg
Phu Van Lau is distinguished by its two-tiered roof, red-painted wooden columns and numerous intricate decorative details.

hue relics5.jpg
On the upper floor, circular windows are positioned on the front and rear facades, while square windows appear on both sides in a symmetrical arrangement. The roof ridge and corners are decorated with numerous motifs, mythical creatures and colorful ceramic mosaics. Its overlapping roof tiers and delicate decorative lines give the pavilion an elegant, timeworn character.

hue relics6.jpg
The lower level of Phu Van Lau is open, with a system of wooden columns supporting the roof and a staircase in the center leading to the upper floor. With no enclosing walls, the space feels broad and airy.
hue relics7.jpg

Up close, the ends of the rafters and other wooden structural elements reveal finely detailed decorative work. The paint has faded in many places, leaving visible traces of time on the historic structure.

hue relics8.jpg

The steps at the front are flanked by sculpted dragons with flowing, curved lines. Over time, their surfaces have weathered and changed color, further accentuating the monument’s antique appearance.

hue relics9.jpg

Many visitors to Hue make their way to Phu Van Lau and Nghenh Luong Dinh to explore the landmarks and take photographs. One visitor holds up a VND50,000 ($1.90) banknote to compare its image with the real Phu Van Lau.

hue relics10.jpg

On the reverse of the note, Phu Van Lau and Nghenh Luong Dinh are depicted amid the distinctive scenery of Hue. Across the road, close to the bank of the Perfume River, stands Nghenh Luong Dinh.

Also built during the Nguyen Dynasty, the pavilion once served as a place where the emperor could rest before heading to the river wharf to board a royal dragon boat or simply enjoy the cool breeze.

hue relics11.jpg

Set close to the water in an open setting, Nghenh Luong Dinh has a graceful appearance that contrasts with the more imposing structures inside the Imperial Citadel. Nghenh Luong Dinh is striking for its layers of curved roofs and colorful ornamentation. Dragon figures, floral motifs and ceramic mosaics across the roof lend a sense of softness and elegance to the riverside structure.

hue relics12.jpg

At night, Nghenh Luong Dinh glows beside the Perfume River when viewed from Phu Van Lau. Dragon figures and decorative motifs on the roof in the foreground form a natural frame, drawing the eye toward the illuminated pavilion in the distance.

hue relics13.jpg
Looking outward from inside Nghenh Luong Dinh, Phu Van Lau appears perfectly centered in the view beyond.
hue relics14.jpg

After dark, Phu Van Lau and Nghenh Luong Dinh are both illuminated, facing each other across Le Duan Street. More than a century after they were built, the two structures remain familiar landmarks in the heritage landscape at the heart of Hue.

Ha Nam