A violin-playing snail shop, Quang Ngai-style banh xeo and handmade steamed buns are among the affordable culinary finds waiting in Hanoi’s Dong Da Ward.
Dong Da Ward draws food lovers with its remarkably varied dining scene, from familiar Vietnamese favorites such as bun noodles, pho and steamed rice rolls to snails, steamed buns, fried cakes and crispy banh xeo pancakes.
Here are five popular, affordable places to eat in Dong Da Ward, Hanoi.
Quang Ngai-style banh xeo on Yen Lang Street
The banh xeo restaurant on Yen Lang Street in Dong Da Ward, run by Luong Van Chinh and his wife Tham, both originally from Quang Ngai Province, has been part of Hanoi’s food scene for more than 31 years and is a familiar address for many diners.
The banh xeo here are cooked in small cast-iron pans measuring only about 20 centimeters in diameter.
The ingredients are relatively simple. The batter is made from ground rice without turmeric, with only finely chopped spring onions added, while the filling consists of shrimp, meat and bean sprouts. The beef and pork are simply marinated, with freshness considered the most important factor.
Served piping hot, the pancakes have crisp edges and a slightly airy center with a rich, savory flavor. They come with fresh lettuce, Vietnamese herbs and bean sprouts, along with thin slices of cucumber, carrot and pineapple.
A serving of four banh xeo with accompaniments costs VND70,000, or about $2.70. The restaurant offers two dipping sauces for diners to choose from.
The Quang Ngai-style banh xeo restaurant attracts diners in Dong Da Ward. Photo: Nguyen Huy
Cold snail noodles on Tay Son Street
Tucked inside Alley 136 on Tay Son Street, the cold snail noodle shop run by sisters Bau and Thu Huong has for years remained a popular dining destination in Dong Da Ward.
Its bun oc nguoi, a traditional Hanoi dish of cold snail broth served with rice noodles, is prepared with two main varieties of freshwater snails: smaller oc van and larger oc mit. The restaurant sources them from the Phu Ly area in what was formerly Ha Nam Province.
Unlike cold snail noodles at many other restaurants, this version is served without tomatoes or spring onions and comes without fresh herbs. Yet its simplicity has done little to diminish its appeal.
The snail broth, made from the liquid used to cook the snails, has an orange-yellow hue with a gently sour yet subtly sweet flavor that pairs well with the soft, silky rice noodles.
The snails are carefully cleaned, with their ends removed to eliminate grit and any unpleasant smell, leaving the meat satisfyingly crisp and chewy.
Diners can add chili paste for extra color and heat.
Refreshing cold snail noodles are a favorite among many diners. Photo: Tu Anh Dao
The ‘violin’ snail shop in Trung Liet
Hidden in a narrow alley in Trung Liet, Dong Da Ward, Oanh’s small snail shop, run by Tu Oanh and her husband Sy, regularly draws a crowd despite its limited space.
It has become even busier since Sy began playing the violin for customers.
While many people come for the snails, others visit out of curiosity or return repeatedly because they enjoy his violin performances and his famously sharp-tongued yet humorous personality.
The shop occupies two small areas, one facing the alley and another on the ground floor of the family home. Both are fairly cramped.
The menu is equally modest, offering just a handful of traditional favorites, including boiled snails, steamed clams, fried fermented pork rolls, French fries, boiled or tamarind-sautéed quail eggs and seasonal fruit.
Many diners, however, praise the food for being carefully prepared and the dipping sauces for their well-balanced flavors. The owners’ warmth and enthusiasm are another reason customers speak highly of the place.
The small snail shop in Dong Da Ward has become even more popular thanks to Sy’s entertaining violin performances. Photo: Linh Trang
Thu Hien steamed buns
Located on Nguyen Luong Bang Street in Dong Da Ward, Thu Hien is a steamed bun shop popular with local diners.
The shop initially sold only basic varieties, including plain buns and buns filled with pork and quail eggs. Over time, it expanded its selection with sausage and cheese and salted egg varieties to cater to a wider range of tastes.
One particular favorite is the cheese and salted egg bun. The salted eggs are prepared in-house and cured for a month, and this variety is especially popular with children.
Other fillings, including pork and mung bean, are also made by hand and seasoned to suit customers’ tastes.
The shop currently offers several varieties, including plain steamed buns, mung bean buns, sausage and cheese buns, cheese and salted egg buns, and traditional pork and quail egg buns.
Prices range from VND5,000 to VND20,000, or roughly $0.20 to $0.80 each, depending on the variety.
Traditional fried cakes on Thai Thinh Street
Traditional fried cakes are a popular Hanoi snack. Photo: Banh ran co truyen HK - Thai Thinh
Despite its modest size and somewhat hidden location, a family-run traditional fried cake shop on Thai Thinh Street operated by 32-year-old Nguyen Quoc Khanh has attracted a steady stream of customers for several years.
The shop makes two varieties: fried cakes coated in sugarcane molasses and those coated in sugar. Both use basic ingredients including rice, mung beans, molasses and white sugar.
Khanh inherited the recipe from his grandparents but has made several adjustments to preserve his family’s traditional flavors while making the cakes more appealing to contemporary tastes.
The biggest change is the filling.
Instead of the traditional sweet filling, Khanh uses a savory one to create a more balanced flavor and make the fried cakes less rich and cloying.
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