Located on the bustling Hai Ba Trung Street, Tan Dinh Market - nearly 100 years old - is officially recognized as a city-level architectural heritage site.

Records indicate the market first took shape in the 1870s–1880s. In 1926, the French invested 110,000 piastres (Indochina silver coins) to rebuild it under the name Tan Dinh Market, which officially opened in 1927.

In its early days, the market was dubbed the “market of the wealthy,” attracting many upper-class Saigonese. In later years, it became famous for its rich variety of fabrics, from affordable to high-end, earning the nickname “the fabric heaven” of Ho Chi Minh City.

Today, the market draws visitors from far and wide thanks to its charming old-world architecture, red-tiled roof, clock tower, and especially its vibrant, affordable street food scene. Notable food stalls include those selling bun mam, crab soup, chicken sticky rice, and pork rib congee.

Choi Jongrak, a Korean content creator and co-owner of a YouTube channel with over a million subscribers, recently shared a video of his culinary tour through Tan Dinh Market. Armed with just 200,000 VND, he managed to sample a wide range of delicious dishes.

Having researched the market’s famous stalls in advance, Jongrak began his journey with a bowl of bun mam from the well-known vendor Miss Bong.

This stall has been open for more than 30 years. The dish features a rich, thick broth infused with fermented fish sauce (mam ca linh), served with fresh shrimp, squid, and crispy roast pork.

It was Jongrak’s third time eating bun mam, and he noted that Co Bong’s version was the saltiest, but the freshness and abundance of ingredients made it stand out. The side of tamarind fish sauce for dipping shrimp, squid, and roast pork offered a tangy and spicy kick.

Next, he visited Miss Van’s dessert stall for a mixed sweet soup (che thap cam). “I’m usually not a fan of che because it’s too sweet, but this one was perfectly balanced,” he said. Though he had visited the nearby Tan Dinh Church many times, he hadn’t known about this hidden gem. The dessert stall dazzled with its colorful and beautifully arranged ingredients.

He then tried a hot bowl of crab soup with pig brain, priced at 50,000 VND (2.05 USD). As he ate, he nodded in delight, saying, “You can’t find this dish in Korea. Every time I lose my appetite in Vietnam, crab soup comes to mind.”

Though already full, Jongrak couldn’t resist trying a bowl of pork rib congee. The small vendor had only a few plastic chairs and tables. In the evening, the stall gets very crowded, with people often waiting in line or eating directly on their motorbikes.

Unlike the more common floury porridge, this version used broken rice grains slow-cooked with tender pork ribs for hours. The ribs were served whole, offering a more satisfying and authentic bite.

The piping hot bowl came topped with glossy white congee, pink pork ribs, crispy golden crullers, century egg, minced meat, pepper, and fresh herbs.

“This porridge is neither too thick nor too watery. It’s delicious! Absolutely worth trying. All the toppings are fantastic,” he commented. Jongrak even said this dish surpassed the crab soup in taste.

“This is worth the wait. The queue isn’t too long, but they sell out quickly, so come early,” he advised.

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Jongrak enjoys bun mam priced at 60,000 VND (2.45 USD) with a fresh juice for 20,000 VND (0.82 USD). Photo: HanQuocBros

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A generous serving of bun mam. Photo: HanQuocBros

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The glass of che thap cam Jongrak tasted cost 25,000 VND (1 USD). Photo: HanQuocBros

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A hot, flavorful bowl of crab and pig brain soup, costing 50,000 VND (2.05 USD). Photo: HanQuocBros

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Jongrak’s bowl of congee, priced at 40,000 VND (1.64 USD), featured golden crullers, soft ribs, century egg, and minced pork. Photo: HanQuocBros
Linh Trang