Despite its intimidating appearance, this seasonal Hanoi specialty has become a must-try dish for both locals and foreign travelers.
Before cooking, the live ruoi worms often trigger fear and discomfort. Photo: Linh Trang
Though Hanoi is not a natural harvesting ground for ruoi - a kind of bristle worm found in Quang Ninh, Hai Phong, or Hung Yen (formerly part of Thai Binh) - the capital has turned cha ruoi (fried worm patties) into a winter delicacy that draws both domestic and international travelers.
The dish has garnered attention from global media due to its bizarre appearance and unexpectedly rich flavor.
The South China Morning Post once described the contrast between fresh ruoi and cooked cha ruoi as "two completely different worlds": one cold and off-putting with a strong fishy odor, the other fragrant and enticing. Meanwhile, French news agency AFP called it a must-try culinary experience during Hanoi’s chilly season.
In its raw state, ruoi appear slimy, squirming in hues of green and red, emitting an intense smell that may unsettle many. Yet once in the skilled hands of local chefs, they are transformed into golden, aromatic cakes that entice with just their scent.
Hang Beo’s fried ruoi on Lo Duc Street
This fried worm patty shop is known for drawing large crowds. Photo: Linh Trang
Hang Beo’s cha ruoi stall made international headlines when it was featured on CNN in 2020. According to owner Ba Hang, she has been making the dish for nearly three decades, following a family recipe handed down by her grandmother.
Besides ruoi, the patties include chicken eggs, ground pork shoulder, pork paste, dried and fresh scallions, dill, ginger, black pepper, chili oil, and a special touch - thinly sliced mandarin peel.
Each patty is fried twice to ensure a crispy exterior while keeping the inside soft and rich. The dish is served with vermicelli, fresh herbs, and a sweet-sour fish sauce.
A serving of vermicelli with cha ruoi costs about $1.85, while the special version with more worm content is priced at $2.65. Individual patties range from $0.80 to $1.20 each.
The stall operates from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. daily.
Hung Thinh’s fried ruoi on Hang Chieu Street
Hang Chieu’s worm cakes were featured on the South China Morning Post. Photo: Linh Trang
Located at the entrance of Hang Chieu Street, next to the historical O Quan Chuong gate, this shop has been serving cha ruoi for nearly 30 years.
According to the owner, the mixture is made from freshly beaten ruoi, ground pork shoulder, paper-thin mandarin peel, scallions, dill, pepper, and MSG. The worms are sourced from regions like Hai Phong, Nghe An, and Quang Ninh and transported over a hundred kilometers to Hanoi immediately after being caught.
There are two main types of patties here: one with the ruoi completely beaten into a paste, and another where the worms remain whole. The former offers a smoother texture and blended flavor, while the latter delivers a nuttier, richer taste. Prices vary from $1.20 to nearly $8 per piece, depending on size.
The stall opens all day, but with limited seating, patrons often have to wait during peak lunch and dinner hours.
Hoe Nhai’s sidewalk-style ruoi patties
Many diners enjoy the experience of frying their own patties. Photo: Hungry Two Travel
Compared to the more famous Hang Chieu or Lo Duc stalls, this modest vendor on Hoe Nhai sidewalk receives less media coverage, offering more budget-friendly prices starting from just $0.60 per patty.
Only open during the autumn and winter months, the stall serves cha ruoi with small, bite-sized bundles of vermicelli rather than larger noodle sheets. The vendor can adjust the amount of worm content on request, with extra charges applied accordingly. With limited seating, most customers opt for takeaway.
Loc’s DIY fried ruoi on Hang Bun Street
At Loc’s eatery, the experience is more hands-on. Instead of being served ready-made, diners can fry their own patties over a tabletop oil pan and alcohol burner, enjoying the sizzling cakes hot off the grill.
The patties are served with vermicelli, herbs, and sweet fish sauce, but guests may also choose chili sauce, vinegar, or fresh chili depending on taste.
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