A nearly three-decade-old cha ruoi (Vietnamese ragworm fritters) shop on Lo Duc Street, Hanoi, owned by Mrs. Le Le Hang, gained international attention when it was featured on CNN’s Great Big Story in 2020.
As the year draws to a close and Hanoi’s weather turns crisp and chilly, the aroma of freshly fried cha ruoi attracts a steady stream of customers. While not as widely known as pho or bun cha, cha ruoi holds a special place in Hanoi’s culinary scene, with a few iconic establishments such as Hung Thinh on Hang Chieu Street, Hoe Nhai, Gia Ngu, O Quan Chuong, and Hang Beo on Lo Duc.
A legacy of flavor
Le Le Hang, now 61, has been making and selling cha ruoi for nearly 30 years. Initially, she sold the dish on sidewalks during the ragworm season, which runs from September to December in the lunar calendar. In 2007, she opened a small restaurant on Lo Duc Street to serve her growing number of loyal customers.
Hang learned the craft from her grandmother, a meticulous cook from Hai Phong. According to Hang, the secret to a delicious cha ruoi lies in using 100% fresh ragworms, primarily sourced from Tu Ky (Hai Duong), Quang Yen, and Dong Trieu (Quang Ninh).
"Fresh ragworms are reddish and lively. If they’re swollen or stale, the fritters won’t taste right. The size doesn’t matter - it's all about the freshness," Hang explained.
In the early days, sourcing ragworms was a challenge. The transport and preservation of this delicate "earth dragon" required significant effort. Over time, Hang invested in cold storage facilities directly at ragworm collection sites, ensuring that the worms were washed, frozen, and preserved properly to meet customer demand year-round.
The art of making cha ruoi
Making cha ruoi is a meticulous process. Fresh ragworms are combined with ingredients like eggs, minced pork shoulder, gio song (a type of Vietnamese pork paste), scallions, dill, ginger, black pepper, and a touch of sate chili paste.
The defining element, however, is finely chopped peels of "quyt hoi," a fragrant mandarin orange variety with a high oil content that neutralizes the fishy smell and adds a delightful aroma.
The mixture is ladled into hot oil, creating hand-sized fritters that are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Hang’s experience ensures each fritter is perfectly cooked - golden and crisp but never overdone.
When served, the fritters are reheated for an extra crispy exterior while retaining their rich, tender interior. Customers typically enjoy cha ruoi with fresh rice noodles, herbs, and a sweet-and-sour dipping sauce. Additional condiments like chili, vinegar, and fresh peppers are also available for personal preference.
A simple yet satisfying dish
A basic cha ruoi set with noodles costs 45,000 VND (around $1.90), while a "special" portion, with extra ragworms, is priced at 65,000 VND ($2.70). Individual fritters are sold for 20,000-30,000 VND (roughly $0.80-$1.20) each. The shop also offers other dishes like grilled pork and vermicelli or shrimp and pork spring rolls, though these are less popular than cha ruoi.
The restaurant is busiest during lunch (11:30 a.m.–1:00 p.m.) and late afternoon, with many customers opting for takeaway or purchasing fresh or frozen ragworms for home cooking.
Hien Anh, a loyal customer from Hanoi’s Ba Dinh District, described the fritters as "thick, flavorful, and perfectly crispy on the outside, while soft and warm on the inside - a perfect harmony with the sweet-and-sour dipping sauce."