Thao Trinh
With a passion for travel, Geoff from Canada has embarked on numerous trips across various countries. In Vietnam, he has visited popular destinations such as Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, Hoi An (Quang Nam), Hue, Ninh Binh, and Hanoi, immersing himself in the local culture and cuisine.
Geoff shared that during his time in Hanoi, he had an unforgettable experience - joining locals at a wholesale market at 4 AM to taste some of the early morning delights.
Accompanying him was Ms. Duyen, a chef who also works in the tourism industry. Their chosen destination was Long Bien Market, located under the Long Bien Bridge in Ba Dinh District, one of Hanoi’s largest wholesale markets and only about 1 km from Dong Xuan Market in the Old Quarter.
Long Bien Market operates from 11 PM the previous night until early the following morning, with peak trading hours between 2-4 AM. This timeframe is ideal for visitors looking to witness the vibrant, bustling atmosphere.
Due to its late-night operations, Long Bien Market is famously known as the “market that never sleeps,” attracting both local and international tourists.
Previously, the market had been recognized by Go Backpacking magazine as one of the five most fascinating markets in Southeast Asia and was also named one of the world’s seven most interesting outdoor markets by Conde Nast Traveler.
Geoff recounted waking up early to reach Long Bien Market just before 4 AM.
After walking around, he was impressed by the lively scene and delighted when several vendors offered him free samples of fruit, including sugarcane, plums, and oranges.
Chef Duyen then introduced him to cha muc (fried squid cakes) and cha ca (fried fish cakes) at a vendor’s stall. Geoff was surprised by the handcrafted nature of the cha, which had a vibrant appearance and enticing aroma.
“The squid cakes were so hot but incredibly tasty. The squid was fresh. I didn’t have high expectations for the fish cakes initially, but they turned out to be amazing,” Geoff said.
Next, they visited a small eatery at the market’s corner to try trứng rán lá ngải (fried eggs with mugwort).
Chef Duyen explained that mugwort is a familiar ingredient in Vietnamese cuisine, known not only for its culinary uses but also for its health benefits, such as alleviating headaches, joint pain, fever, and colds.
This street food dish is popular and affordable, enjoyed by many in Hanoi.
When tasting the dish, Geoff noted that while mugwort has a bitter taste, it also carries a fragrant hint reminiscent of orange peel.
“The bitterness of the mugwort, combined with the fried eggs and the sweet-and-sour dipping sauce made from chili, sugar, salt, and kumquat, created an explosion of flavors,” the Canadian visitor shared.
In addition to the fried eggs, Geoff sampled sticky rice with braised pork. The dish was generously portioned, featuring braised pork, fatty pork pie, shredded pork floss, and pickled vegetables.
He praised the sticky rice’s soft and flavorful texture. “The sticky rice is delicious, the braised pork melts in your mouth, and the pickled vegetables are great,” he said.
Seeing Geoff’s enjoyment, the sticky rice vendor offered him an extra piece of beef pie, leaving him touched by the warmth and hospitality of the locals.
Reflecting on the experience, Geoff admitted that waking up so early was not enjoyable, but the visit to the wholesale market made it worthwhile.
“The trip was well worth it. Just having delicious food and receiving extra treats made it amazing,” he expressed.
Photo credit: Pure Detour