In the heart of Hanoi, a fourth-generation pho shop owner draws crowds daily, serving up to 500 bowls of steaming beef noodle soup on weekends. The story behind this thriving business is one of family tradition, resilience, and dedication.

A legacy steeped in pho tradition

At 8 a.m. on a brisk weekend morning, a pho shop on Nguyen Khuyen Street in Hanoi’s Dong Da District is abuzz with activity. Over 40 customers fill the eight stainless steel tables inside and four plastic tables on the sidewalk.

Behind the counter, Co Thanh Huong, the 24-year-old owner, works swiftly alongside her eight staff members.

Some blanch noodles, others slice meat, while Huong meticulously layers tender beef slices onto the bowls, adding fresh ginger and ladling steaming broth over them.

“The weekend crowd is much larger, especially during chilly weather,” Huong shares.

"On busy days, we sell 80 to 90 kilograms of noodles and often run out of stock by late morning.”

Huong’s family has been in the pho business for four generations, starting with her great-grandmother, who brought the trade from Van Cu village in Nam Dinh to Hanoi. The recipe has evolved to suit the palates of Hanoians while retaining its essence.

The shop, once nameless, gained recognition as “Pho Sinh Tu” after the street it originally occupied, now known as Nguyen Khuyen. Over time, it also earned the nickname “Hau Bo Doi,” referencing Huong’s mother’s strong and industrious persona.

From office work to carrying on a family legacy

In 2021, after a brief stint in an office job, Huong decided to assist her mother in running the family business. Starting with small tasks, she gradually learned every step, from making broth to managing the shop.

Two years later, her mother retired, and Huong took over the operation entirely.

“Initially, I found the work exhausting, especially as a woman. But the more I immersed myself, the more I grew to love it,” Huong reflects.

Her passion for pho stems from seeing her mother’s tireless devotion.

"Years ago, my mother worked tirelessly over a steaming broth pot, even during sweltering summers. Despite the hardships, she loved her work and raised us with the earnings from every bowl of pho,” Huong recalls.

The secret to an unforgettable bowl of pho

Huong’s pho stands out for its clear and subtly sweet broth, made without overpowering spices like star anise, cinnamon, or cardamom often found in traditional Nam Dinh pho.

The broth derives its flavor from bones and meat, with just a hint of crushed ginger. The bones, sourced from trusted suppliers, are soaked for six hours, rinsed multiple times, and blanched before being simmered for 24 hours.

“A clean preparation process is key to a clear broth with natural sweetness and no unpleasant odors,” Huong explains.

The shop offers various beef cuts, including brisket, flank, and shank, each requiring meticulous preparation.

While the shop now uses a meat slicer to reduce manual labor, Huong recalls how she trained for over a month to perfect her knife skills, enduring calloused and even bleeding hands.

The noodles used are thick and chewy, a choice Huong made to ensure they retain their texture in the hot broth.

A flourishing business with room to grow

With a growing customer base, Huong recently relocated to a larger space to accommodate more diners and upgraded the kitchen facilities for better hygiene.

The shop operates from 6:10 a.m. to noon or 1 p.m., and from 6:10 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Despite its success, the shop faces occasional challenges, such as slower service during peak hours and broth that some customers find slightly salty.

Bowls are priced between 45,000 and 70,000 VND ($1.85–$2.90), and the shop sells 400 to 500 bowls daily. Popular dishes like brisket pho and crispy flank pho often sell out by 9 a.m.

For Huong, the goal remains clear: preserving her family’s recipe while continuously improving service quality.

"My great-grandmother, grandparents, and parents poured their heart into this craft. I will continue to honor their legacy," she says.