Just steps into a narrow alley where even two pedestrians would struggle to pass, and up a steep staircase that wobbles with each step, visitors are rewarded with the warm, nostalgic embrace of a hidden Hanoi café. At its front is a charming balcony overlooking the lush green waters of Hoan Kiem Lake.

On a clear morning, Kayla from Belgium and Sien from the US were strolling around the lake when they spotted a quaint balcony perched on the second floor of an old yellow-walled house, complete with sky-blue wooden shutters and potted greenery.

Several guests were already seated on the wooden stools by the balcony, quietly sipping drinks and watching the world pass beneath them.

"Without hesitation, we crossed the street and made our way to the café with that incredible balcony," Kayla recalled.

Following a faded wooden sign, the pair squeezed into the narrow alley - barely a meter wide - and climbed the steep, uneven steps. Behind a small wooden door, they found an unexpectedly spacious, cozy café steeped in vintage charm.

They were greeted by the owner and walked past two rooms to reach the sun-drenched balcony, cooled by a gentle breeze. It’s a favorite corner for nearly every visitor - offering a wide-open view over Hoan Kiem Lake and the bustling intersection of Hang Khay and Dinh Tien Hoang streets.

“I feel lucky to have stumbled upon this place. It reminds me of scenes from an old romantic movie set in Hanoi,” said Kayla.

Sien agreed, adding, “If I had the time, I could sit here all day, talking with friends or getting work done.”

A café built from family memories

Located at 9A Hang Khay Alley, the café opened in 2009. Owner Nguyen Duc Cuong explained that it was created inside his family home, which had housed three generations and held countless memories.

In the early 2000s, Cuong and his siblings got married and moved out, leaving their mother in the house.

“In 2009, my wife and I, along with other family members, decided to renovate the home and turn it into a small café - both to welcome friends and partners, and to earn extra income. It also became a place for our children to gain business experience and develop soft skills outside of school,” Cuong said.

Over the past 16 years, the house has undergone multiple renovations. The most recent - its most comprehensive transformation - took place after the Covid-19 pandemic.

While the original partitioned layout remains, the walls were repainted a warm yellow, and charming arched doorways were added.

Cuong preserved the raw red brick walls, wooden ceiling beams, wooden floors, and floral-tiled balcony - keeping the home’s aged, authentic character intact for visitors to appreciate.

To enhance the space, he installed vintage-style filament lights that dangle from the wooden ceiling, as well as small corner lamps with artistic shapes and soft glows.

From house to home café, from tradition to innovation

According to Cuong, the café’s name comes from French, meaning "the upper floor," in reference to its unique setting. The drinks - ranging from coffee and cocoa to fresh juice and tea - were all developed by his wife and children through hands-on learning and experimentation.

“We serve drinks the way we enjoy them at home. Since we don’t pay rent, we can invest in high-quality ingredients,” Cuong noted.

“Initially, my wife and the kids ran the place. Now, my son and I are in charge. Whenever he doesn’t have school, he comes in to help prepare drinks and serve guests,” he added.

Known for being meticulous, Cuong ensures that both the preparation tools and the café space are kept spotless.

The café opens daily from 9 AM to 10 PM and is busiest around lunchtime and late afternoon.

Egg coffee with a family twist

The café’s best-selling drink is the iconic Vietnamese egg coffee. Cuong uses coffee beans from the Central Highlands, which he brews in a phin filter overnight. In the morning, the rich black coffee is bottled and chilled, ready to serve throughout the day.

For each cup, egg yolk and a touch of cream are whipped until light and fluffy, with all eggy odors eliminated.

“We make each cup to order,” Cuong said. “The coffee is poured into a glass and heated in the microwave. Then the fresh egg foam is gently layered on top.”

Each cup of egg coffee is priced at 55,000 VND (about 2.25 USD). Other drinks range from 40,000 to 60,000 VND (1.65 to 2.45 USD).

The coconut coffee is especially popular with international guests, while regulars tend to prefer the classic black coffee or ‘bac xiu’ - a sweetened milk coffee.

A quiet following, a glowing reputation

Greg, a traveler from Australia, spent two weeks exploring Hanoi and nearby destinations. While in the city, he and his companion made a point of visiting cafés with vintage aesthetics and peaceful vibes.

“We visited 10 different cafés, always trying the egg coffee - something I can’t find in Melbourne. I discovered this place through beautiful Instagram photos. But it’s even better in person. The balcony is breezy and scenic, while inside feels warm and tranquil,” he said.

Greg praised the balance of flavors: the rich, velvety egg foam, the satisfying aroma, and the sweetness that perfectly suited his taste.

Though it has earned the nickname “introvert café,” the shop has rarely promoted itself online over the years. It doesn’t have a large social media presence, yet it boasts a 4.5-star rating from 256 reviews on Google Maps. Most visitors find it through word-of-mouth or glowing recommendations from past guests.

Even the narrow alley and steep stairs leading to the entrance have become favorite photo spots for café-goers.

Linh Trang & Nguyen Huy