Tucked away in the labyrinthine alleys of Hanoi's Old Quarter are several humble pho restaurants, each offering a unique taste of tradition amidst their cramped quarters. Despite their modest settings, these establishments draw in crowds with their flavorful dishes and affordable prices.
Mrs. Nguyen Thi Anh's chicken pho restaurant
The restaurant is located in a small, narrow, old alley.
Located in a narrow alley off Hang Dao ancient street, Mrs. Nguyen Thi Anh's chicken pho restaurant may be small and dimly lit, but it draws a steady stream of patrons daily. The intimate space, adorned with a few plastic tables and essential appliances, serves as both dining area and kitchen.
The highlight of Mrs. Anh's menu is her meticulously prepared chicken dishes, praised for their golden, crispy skin and tender, flavorful meat. Diners flock here for specialties like shredded chicken, chicken salad, and chicken pho, all crafted from locally sourced hens known for their quality.
Mrs. Anh, who personally oversees the cooking process, emphasizes the importance of selecting and preparing the chicken with care. "I don't have a special recipe," she says modestly, "but I know how to cook chicken just right—crispy on the outside, moist and aromatic inside."
Each day, Mrs. Anh and her family meticulously prepare the chicken, boiling it to perfection and then shredding it by hand. The resulting broth, infused with ginger and shiitake mushrooms, forms the base of their simple yet savory pho and vermicelli dishes.
Despite the simplicity of her offerings, Mrs. Anh's restaurant is a magnet for diners seeking authentic flavors and a comforting meal. Prices remain stable, thanks to minimal overhead costs, allowing Mrs. Anh to focus on delivering quality dishes at reasonable prices.
Operating mainly during lunch hours from Monday to Saturday, Mrs. Anh takes pride in her restaurant's ability to maintain its charm and popularity within the local community and beyond.
Mrs. Nguyen Thi Thinh's beef pho restaurant
The narrow, deep alley is the path leading to the pho restaurant.
Tucked away in a narrow alley at the start of Le Duan Street, opposite Nguyen Thai Hoc, Mrs. Nguyen Thi Thinh's pho restaurant has become a beloved spot among locals despite its unassuming appearance.
Operating out of their family's ground-floor room, which spills into a small courtyard in the alley, the restaurant is a tight squeeze with just enough space for a few folding tables and chairs. Here, in the front of the house, Mrs. Thinh and her husband diligently prepare their signature pho dishes.
The atmosphere inside is described as narrow, stuffy, and sometimes warm, prompting some customers to affectionately nickname it the "bunker pho". Yet, despite these conditions, the restaurant enjoys a loyal customer base of regulars, including nearby office workers and neighbors.
The restaurant sells 3 types of pho: rare, rare well-done, and rare rolled, all priced at 35,000 VND.
Mrs. Thinh's commitment to quality is evident in her meticulous approach to sourcing and preparing the beef. Each morning, she personally inspects the meat from her trusted supplier, ensuring only the freshest cuts are used. Unlike many establishments, Mrs. Thinh waits to slice the beef until it is ordered, ensuring it remains tender, sweet, and never dry.
However, the demand during peak hours can overwhelm the small kitchen, causing delays that loyal patrons patiently endure. This hands-on approach ensures that each bowl of pho served at Mrs. Thinh's restaurant meets her exacting standards of freshness and flavor.
Pho bung Hang Trong: The sidewalk sensation
The restaurant only opens from 3pm to 9-10pm.
Once a bustling sidewalk spot at the junction of Hang Trong and Hang Bong streets in Hanoi, "pho bung Hang Trong" has evolved and adapted over the years, moving indoors to a modest space tucked away in a small alley.
Previously known for its no-frills setup - just a pot of broth, a basket of beef, and plastic chairs on the sidewalk - the restaurant earned its nickname "pho bung" because customers had to carry their bowls and find seating wherever they could.
Amidst the city's efforts to clear sidewalks in 2016-2017, the restaurant found a new home indoors. To locate it now, patrons must navigate a narrow alley and ascend an old spiral staircase to the second floor of a weathered townhouse.
The pho broth is said to be "as clear as spring water."
The restaurant occupies a mere 10 square meters, with a corner of the owner's living room hosting a handful of plastic tables. The kitchen, squeezed onto a small balcony, still features the essentials - a boiling broth pot, a basket of meat, and tools for making pho.
Despite the cramped conditions, diners continue the tradition of picking up their bowls, even on rainy days when the owner uses an umbrella to shield the outdoor setup. The pho's hallmark is its clear, delicately aromatic broth likened to "spring water," free from heavy meat or bone flavors.
Specializing solely in cooked pho, the restaurant's beef is boiled until tender, thinly sliced, and interlaced with lean fat, offering a light yet satisfying meal that many locals enjoy after a long day's work. Some patrons even purchase the broth separately to pour over cold rice, a nostalgic dish from a simpler era.
Ms. Nguyen Thi Mai's chicken pho oasis
Nestled discreetly in the labyrinthine 40 Nha Chung alley of Hanoi, Ms. Nguyen Thi Mai's Phở Gà Chấm restaurant beckons food lovers with its authentic Vietnamese flavors and warm atmosphere. Operating from 6:30 am to 2 pm daily, except on Sundays, this intimate eatery spans just 30 square meters, yet manages to accommodate up to 20 diners at a time.
With a culinary legacy spanning over three decades, Ms. Mai's journey began in 1988 on Dai Co Viet Street, later moving to the Hang Trong flower garden area in 1993, before finally settling in her current location in 2015.
Initially overshadowed by other local favorites like vermicelli with snails or crab, Phở Gà Chấm gained popularity through word of mouth and social media, quickly becoming the restaurant's star attraction. Priced affordably at 40,000 VND per generous portion, it has captivated locals and visitors alike.
What sets Phở Gà Chấm apart is its unique presentation and meticulous preparation. Featuring wider, rectangular pho noodles that boast a satisfying chewiness, the dish is served alongside perfectly boiled chicken pieces, each adorned with glistening golden skin and garnished with fragrant lemon leaves, coriander, and finely shredded green onions.
Accompanying the dish is a tangy dipping sauce, lovingly concocted from a blend of broth powder, fresh lemon juice, sugar, and just a hint of chili, enhancing the rich flavors of the meal. To complete the experience, diners can savor the comforting chicken soup, simmered with dried bamboo shoots for a robust finish.