For nearly half a century, a small porridge shop tucked away in an alley in Ho Chi Minh City has served customers from 2 p.m. until 10 a.m. the next day. The secret to its enduring popularity lies in a rare, family-passed cooking method.
Editor’s note: In the sleepless rhythm of Ho Chi Minh City, sidewalk eateries that stay open through the night have become familiar destinations for locals.
These humble stalls, lacking flashy signs or fancy storefronts, continue to attract crowds thanks to signature recipes handed down through generations.
VietNamNet presents the series “Ho Chi Minh City’s most popular overnight street food stalls,” spotlighting simple yet legendary venues where flavors bloom under streetlights and in the vibrant breath of the city’s late-night life.
Nearly 50 years of overnight service
At midnight, after a night walk, Ngoc (21, from Ho Chi Minh City) and her friends turned into a small alley on Tran Khac Chan Street in Tan Dinh Ward.
Past the dim stretch, they stopped under the awning of a modest home where a few low plastic tables had been set up. The setting was simple, but this was one of the most famous late-night porridge shops in the city.
The setup is neat, right at the front of the house. A large electric pot of porridge sends out clouds of steam and an irresistible aroma, while a table displays a variety of enticing side dishes.
Ngoc (in black) and her friends visit the hidden porridge shop on Tran Khac Chan Street. Photo: Ha Nguyen
Unlike many other places, the porridge here is cooked to a smooth, paste-like consistency. Diners can choose from dozens of toppings like pork ribs, pig skin, intestines, tongue, windpipe, heart, liver, quail eggs, chicken egg yolks, or century eggs. Each bowl costs from 45,000 to 100,000 VND (approximately USD 1.80 to 4.10), depending on the toppings.
"I really love the porridge here because it reminds me of the Northern-style porridge I used to eat. Since moving from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, this is one of the few places that brings me a sense of home," Ngoc shared.
Ngoc says the dishes remind her of flavors from her hometown. Photo: Ha Nguyen
Owner Nguyen Thi Hao, 72, said the shop existed even before 1975. Initially, it was her mother-in-law-a Northern native-who ran it.
When Hao married into the family, she was tasked with preparing porridge according to the family recipe. At first, her mother-in-law handled all seasoning and side dish preparation. Only after years of practice was Hao entrusted with the full secret to making the perfect pot.
After the war ended, Hao began cooking the porridge herself and carried it in baskets to sell on Yen Do Street in the former Binh Thanh District. Her hot, fragrant porridge quickly gained a loyal following.
Hao inherited the porridge business from her mother-in-law. Photo: Ha Nguyen
“I started selling porridge at 22, carrying heavy baskets until my shoulders were worn thin,” she recalled. “Even while pregnant with my son, I walked all over selling porridge to make a living.”
In 1979, she moved the business into a nearby alley and eventually settled right in front of her house. "If we count from 1975, the shop has now been around for 50 years," she said.
Though tucked away, her shop has become widely known. Instead of just serving in the morning and afternoon, she decided to operate through the night. For decades, her porridge shop has opened from 2 p.m. until 10 a.m. the following day.
The secret recipe
Before cooking, Hao washes the rice, lets it dry naturally, then grinds it into flour. Photo: Ha Nguyen
The final product is creamy, neither too thick nor too watery. Photo: Ha Nguyen
For 50 years, Hao has preserved the unique porridge recipe passed down by her mother-in-law. Every day, she selects high-quality rice, rinses it with salted water, dries it naturally, then grinds it into flour.
The rice flour is seasoned first, then cooked with broth made from pork ribs and marrow bones for a naturally rich and savory flavor. During cooking, Hao carefully monitors the heat and stirs continuously to ensure smooth, lump-free, non-scorched porridge.
In earlier years, Hao shopped for fresh ingredients herself. Today, after years in business, she relies on trusted suppliers but maintains strict quality control.
She meticulously checks every ingredient, especially offal. If the items are not fresh or thoroughly cleaned, she sends them back immediately.
After inspection, staff clean the ingredients thoroughly using special techniques to remove any odor. Thanks to these careful steps, the shop has never lost customers due to food quality or hygiene concerns.
As the shop operates overnight, it serves a wide range of patrons-from city residents and late-night wanderers to celebrities.
Diners can mix and match dozens of side toppings to go with the porridge. Photo: Ha NguyenFor nearly 50 years, the shop has been open from 2 p.m. to 10 a.m. daily. Photo: Ha NguyenThe shop is now run by Hao's son. Photo: Ha Nguyen
“I have many memories of special customers,” Hao shared. “Some were drifters or addicts who left without paying. Others came during hard times and later returned to thank me after becoming successful. Some even came back 20-30 years later from abroad just to eat this porridge again.”
She recalled one rainy night when a young man finished his meal and told her he had no money and asked to owe it. “I agreed with a smile-after all, it was just a bowl of porridge.”
“Years later, a well-dressed man returned, finished his meal, and handed me several foreign bills. I declined, thinking he was mistaken. But he explained he was that young man from years ago, who had eaten without paying. He had since gone overseas to work and came back to thank me,” she said emotionally.
Now in her seventies, Hao no longer stays up all night. Her son-who is the same age as the porridge shop-has taken over night duties, cooking and serving customers.
“Working overnight was tough at first. I had to drink coffee constantly to stay awake,” her son said. “Eventually, I got used to it. After the night shift, I still help prep ingredients-cutting pork, boiling eggs, slicing meat-before taking a rest. Having grown up with this shop, I see it as part of my life.”
Late at night, the sidewalk on Tran Binh Trong Street in Cho Quan Ward is packed with people and motorbikes. Alongside those seated and eating, a queue forms with customers waiting for their turn.
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