Wild ginger from stone crevices gives Lang Son’s specialty sausage its unforgettable fragrance and long shelf life, attracting food lovers year-round.
Lang Son boasts a rich culinary heritage, with celebrated dishes like khau nhuc (braised pork belly), banh ngai (mugwort cake), roasted duck, and purple sticky rice. But no feast is complete without lap suon - the mountain sausage.
Although similar sausages can be found across the northern provinces such as Cao Bang, Son La, Dien Bien, and Lai Chau, the version from Lang Son stands apart for its unique blend of spices and distinct preparation.
Lap suon is a must-have specialty on any Lang Son feast table. Photo: Nguyen Huy
With a bold red color and a signature aroma, Lang Son’s mountain sausage owes its appeal to a rare spice found in the crevices of stone mountains. This regional delicacy can be preserved for several months without spoilage.
While other regions infuse their sausages with mac khen (wild pepper), hat doi (a forest seed), and thao qua (black cardamom), often smoked over wood fires, Lang Son’s version uses wild ginger harvested from stone crevices. Instead of being smoked, the sausages are wind-dried for two to three days.
“I’ve tasted sausages from many places, but Lang Son’s has a fragrance that’s unlike any other. It’s delicious and not greasy. Every Tet holiday, I order 5 to 10 kilograms to bring back to Hanoi for my family and friends,” said Nguyen Hong Trang from Cau Giay, Hanoi.
Elderly couple Chai (76) and Doan (78), of Tay ethnicity in Quynh Son village, Bac Son commune, recalled that sausages were traditionally made only around Tet. Nowadays, they are prepared year-round to meet rising demand from tourists across the country.
Lang Son sausages are seasoned and prepared with a distinctive method. Photo: Pham Giang
“This is the most popular dish among our homestay guests,” said Doan. “But we usually ask for a few days' notice so we can prepare a fresh batch. It takes two to three days per batch.”
The meat used for lap suon is usually fresh pork shoulder, preferably from native pigs. It is carefully cleaned, thinly sliced, and mixed with seasoning - rock salt, black pepper, and most importantly, rice wine infused with wild ginger.
It’s the wild ginger that imparts the sausage’s striking red hue, fragrant aroma, and preservative quality.
The meat is marinated for about two hours before being stuffed into cleaned pig intestines.
“The intestines are thoroughly washed, scraped clean with the back of a knife, and deodorized using plain alcohol or wild ginger wine,” Doan explained.
Careful stuffing ensures each sausage has a balanced mix of lean and fatty meat for optimal texture and flavor. Once stuffed, the sausages are hung in the open air to dry gradually. This process not only enhances their flavor but also extends their shelf life.
The sausages are air-dried gradually. Photo: My ChauWild ginger sausages have a vibrant red hue and rich, fragrant flavor. Photo: Nguyen HuyLang Son sausages can be grilled over charcoal, pan-fried, stir-fried with garlic, or served with sticky rice, black sticky rice cakes, or Lang Son sour pho - all equally irresistible. Photo: Ngoc Lan Doan
According to locals, the best time to make sausages is between October and December on the lunar calendar, when the weather is cold and dry. Sun exposure should be gentle; harsh sunlight or high humidity can ruin the product.
“A well-made sausage should have a fragrant aroma. Once cooked, the casing is slightly crisp while the inside remains moist, tender, and full of natural flavor,” said Doan.
Today, many local producers in Lang Son have adopted machines to slice meat, dry sausages, fill casings, and vacuum-seal the finished product. They’ve also improved packaging for better storage and presentation.
Duong Cong Co, owner of a homestay in Bac Son, shared that demand spikes toward the end of the year, especially for wild ginger sausages, black sticky rice cakes, and khau nhuc. Among these, sausages are the easiest to store and transport, making them the most popular. They sell for around 9 to 12 USD per kilogram and can be kept frozen for several months.
Lang Son sausages can be grilled, pan-fried, stir-fried with garlic, or enjoyed alongside sticky rice, black sticky rice cakes, or Lang Son sour pho. All these combinations are guaranteed to delight the palate.
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