When visiting the Mekong Delta, many travelers are surprised by the unusual names of certain noodle dishes. At first glance, these names may seem like errors or mispronunciations, but in reality, they are local specialties packed with unforgettable flavor.

Bun goi da (rolled salad noodle soup)

This dish is a signature of the former Soc Trang province, now part of Can Tho. Its name, bun goi da, often confuses first-time visitors, who assume it must be a typo for bun goi ga (chicken salad noodle soup).

In fact, bun goi da is a creative adaptation of goi cuon (spring rolls). With spring rolls, ingredients like noodles, shrimp, pork belly, herbs, and fresh greens are rolled in rice paper and dipped in a thick soy-based sauce.

In the noodle version, these ingredients are placed in a bowl and covered in broth, with a bit of ground fermented soy sauce added to enhance the aroma.

The term goi in bun goi da is borrowed from goi cuon, while the word da is believed to have evolved from the way Mekong locals pronounce va (meaning "and" or "with") - so the original name bun goi va gradually morphed into bun goi da or gia over time.

The broth is simmered from pork bones and sometimes enriched with river shrimp, then mixed with tamarind juice to achieve a balanced flavor that is rich yet refreshing, slightly sour, and mildly sweet.

Each eatery has its own way of preparing the dipping sauce made from fermented soybeans, a key element that must be delicately balanced to avoid overpowering the dish.

Bun lac (rocking noodle soup)

Bun lac or hu tieu lac is a distinctive breakfast dish commonly served at the Cai Rang floating market in Can Tho.

The name comes from the constant swaying (lac means “to rock” or “to shake”) of the boats where both vendors and customers sit. These noodle bowls are served while bobbing on the river, adding a unique charm to the experience.

A typical bowl is a feast of color: red from tomatoes and annatto oil, green from herbs and scallions, and protein-packed with shrimp, pork, congealed blood, heart, liver, and meatballs. The hot crab-based broth is finished with a touch of fermented shrimp paste and a dash of spicy chili.

Bun lac (often bun rieu lac) at Cai Rang market was even highlighted by travel site Skyscanner as a “must-try once in a lifetime” dish.

Bun quay (stirred seafood noodles)

Bun quay is a famous specialty of Phu Quoc (now part of An Giang), originally inspired by bun tom from Binh Dinh province. It is believed to have been brought to the island by settlers from Binh Dinh.

The dish gets its name (quay means “to stir”) from the vigorous stirring required when preparing and eating it. Diners make their own dipping sauce from soup powder, MSG, sugar, calamansi juice, and chili paste, then stir it vigorously until it thickens and releases a rich aroma.

Chefs also perform a lot of “stirring” during prep, including stirring minced seafood into paste and pressing it against the bowl, as well as stirring noodles during boiling. Nowadays, many restaurants let guests stir their own sauce, adding to the hands-on experience.

The broth of bun quay is remarkably light, made from fresh seafood and noodle cooking water. It is free from artificial coloring, rich seasonings, or oil, resulting in a slightly cloudy, beige broth.

Seafood is the essential highlight of this dish, with the freshest catch providing the flavor foundation.

Bun suong (silkworm-shaped shrimp noodle soup)

Bun suong is a specialty not only of Vinh Long but also of the Mekong region in general. Sometimes called bun duong, its name comes from the resemblance of the shrimp cakes (cha tom) to coconut tree grubs (duong dua) – pale yellow and soft-bodied.

These shrimp cakes are the centerpiece of the dish and require meticulous preparation.

The broth is made by simmering pork bones, dried shrimp, and a touch of tamarind for a mildly sour and savory flavor. It's not clear like many noodle soups but has a light brown color, influenced by the tamarind and fermented soybeans used.

A bowl of bun suong typically includes sliced pork belly, cabbage, water spinach, banana blossom, herbs, bean sprouts, and scallions. It’s served with a dipping sauce made from fermented soybean paste and chili.

Linh Trang