On a recent trip from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi for business and leisure, Tran Viet Phuong - known online as Travip - stumbled upon a food lover’s dream just over 70km from the capital. It wasn’t a place making waves on social media, but it captivated him enough to visit not once, but three times.

Phuong, the creator of YouTube channel Yeu May Bay with nearly 500,000 followers, has since introduced this hidden gem to his viewers: the former Hai Duong City area, now part of wards like Le Thanh Nghi, Thanh Dong, and Hai Duong (under Hai Phong administration).

"It’s not just a city of historical landmarks," he said. "Old Hai Duong is also home to charming eateries offering delicious, unique street food. The owners are friendly, and the prices are unbelievably affordable."

Breakfast with fried vermicelli bread and egg cream sponge cake

One of the dishes Phuong was eager to try was banh mi mien - fried bread stuffed with vermicelli. Unlike traditional Vietnamese bánh mì filled with grilled pork, pate or sausage, this version features stir-fried glass noodles with wood ear mushrooms and bean sprouts, finished with herbs, cucumber, shredded pork floss, and optionally, a fried egg.

It’s an unlikely combination - vermicelli is typically used in soups or stir-fries - but it comes together beautifully as a warm, crispy, flavorful morning snack.

Phuong sampled the dish at a stall on Pham Ngu Lao Street in Le Thanh Nghi Ward, and another on Pham Hong Thai Street in Hai Duong Ward.

"The bread is dipped in sugar water before being fried, which gives it a subtle sweetness and a light crunch," he described. "The filling reminds me of spring roll stuffing, with vermicelli, chopped carrots, wood ear mushrooms, and herbs. It’s well-seasoned, rich but not greasy, and just the right size for a satisfying start to the day."

Another breakfast item he recommended is the sponge cake with egg cream, served at a modest street stall on Mac Thi Buoi Street in Le Thanh Nghi Ward.

Run by an elderly couple, the shop has no signage and minimal setup - just a display case and a few basic tables and chairs.

For the egg cream, the couple uses only egg yolks, whipping them with a bit of sugar using a handmade electric mixer. When the mixture thickens, they add a touch of condensed milk for richness and continue whisking until it’s smooth and airy.

"The cream is so thick you can turn the cup upside down and it won’t spill," Phuong said. "The sponge cake is soft and light, and when dipped into the egg cream, it’s aromatic, not too sweet, and not at all eggy."

Each cup of egg cream costs around $0.40, and a sponge cake is about the same.

Afternoon bites: steamed rice cakes and crispy fried bao

For his afternoon snack, Phuong highlighted two favorites: banh beo and fried bao.

At a street stall on Mac Thi Buoi Street, banh beo is sold in banana leaf-wrapped square parcels, unlike the round versions common in central and southern Vietnam.

There are two types: one with fried shallots for around $0.12, and another with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms for about $0.20. The cakes are kept warm in a steamer box and served with a rich shallot-flavored dipping sauce.

Also memorable were the fried bao from a vendor on Nguyen Trai Street in Thanh Dong Ward. These feature a thin, crispy shell filled with minced pork, glass noodles, and egg, seasoned to perfection. They're served with pickled vegetables to balance the flavors, and priced at just $0.35 each.

Dinner with duck vermicelli soup or bánh cuốn with snail sausage

For dinner, Phuong visited mien Huong, a busy eatery on Bui Thi Cuc Street in Le Thanh Nghi Ward. When he arrived around 6pm, customers were already lining up, grabbing trays and bowls, and placing their orders directly.

The signature duck vermicelli soup costs just $0.80 but comes generously portioned, with soft noodles, tender duck, and even giblets in a flavorful broth.

But Phuong’s favorite dish from the entire trip was the banh cuon at Ba Do restaurant in Bac Son, Hai Duong Ward.

The steamed rice rolls were silky and fresh, paired with an impressive range of sausages: pork sausage ($0.30), beef, crab, snail, and la lot (wild betel leaf), each around $0.50.

He especially loved the snail sausage for its chewy, crunchy texture and deep flavor. The beef version, seasoned with dill, was also a standout.

The restaurant earned extra points for cleanliness, attractive presentation, and warm, honest service.

An easy day trip by train with a surprise café at the station

Phuong recommends taking the train from Hanoi to Hai Duong station - a convenient and scenic route. He noted a charming little café inside the station compound, built from a repurposed train car, where visitors can sip coffee while watching the trains come and go.

For travelers starting in Hanoi or eastern Hai Phong, this destination is easily accessible in a day. There are four daily train pairs between Hanoi and Hai Phong that stop in Hai Duong. From Long Bien Station, only LP-class trains make this stop, while travelers can also depart from Gia Lam Station.

From Hai Phong, trains depart from both Hai Phong and Thuong Ly stations.

Linh Trang