Linh Trang - Kim Ngan
Nestled in an old apartment complex in Hanoi, the small sticky rice ice cream and Thai dessert shop owned by 85-year-old Duong Thi An has been a cherished destination for many generations of customers. With a menu of just three items, this shop has become a well-known spot for those seeking a taste of traditional flavors.
An, now 85, has run the sticky rice ice cream and Thai dessert shop for more than half her life, “from when my hair was still black to now, when it’s fully grey.” For over 40 years, she has worked tirelessly, serving generations of customers with her pot of Thai dessert, trays of sticky rice, and tubs of ice cream.
"Many of my customers started coming when they were students, back when ice cream cost just a few coins. Now they bring their families, with children and grandchildren,” she shares.
Located in the Giang Vo apartment complex in Ba Dinh, Hanoi, An’s shop is simple and slightly old-fashioned but spacious and well-organized, with tables neatly arranged. Diners can enjoy their desserts with a view of Kim Ma Street above.
Previously, the shop was located on Phan Chu Trinh Street and was reputed to be the first Thai dessert shop in Hanoi, attracting a large following.
An was born and raised in Udon Thani, Thailand. In 1985, she brought her Thai dessert recipes to Hanoi to earn a living. Initially, the shop offered a wide range of Thai desserts, but now the family focuses on just three items: Thai dessert, sticky rice ice cream, and a layered cake called “Nine-Layer Cloud Cake.”
An’s sticky rice ice cream is made in the traditional Thai style, without the modifications commonly seen elsewhere.
The sticky rice is soft, fragrant, and delicately infused with pandan leaves. The vanilla-flavored ice cream is homemade by An’s family, ensuring it is neither too sweet nor too bland, with a smooth, creamy texture free of ice crystals. It is topped with crispy, toasted coconut, adding a slight saltiness that balances the sweetness of the ice cream.
When asked about the secret to her popular sticky rice ice cream, An simply smiles and says, “There’s no special trick; I just rely on experience. For sticky rice to be good, it has to be fragrant and glutinous.
"You have to know how to choose the rice, soak it, and steam it properly so that each grain stays round, isn’t mushy or dry, and has a beautiful green color. The ice cream must be fresh and moderately sweet to keep customers coming back.”
An carefully selects each coconut based on years of experience. After grating, the coconut meat is cleaned, dried, and seasoned according to a unique recipe. This preparation requires attention to detail, so she makes just enough fresh coconut daily for the customers.
The sticky rice’s green color comes from blending fresh pandan leaves, which sometimes leaves tiny flecks of leaf in the rice. An often has to explain to customers that this is not a sign of spoilage.
Besides sticky rice ice cream, An’s Thai dessert is also a popular choice.
Unlike other shops that add numerous ingredients, her Thai dessert is simple, consisting of mung bean paste, sago pearls, fresh coconut, coconut milk, worm-shaped jelly noodles, and small shell-shaped rice flour balls. The flavor is mildly sweet and refreshing.
Viet Anh, a regular from Hai Ba Trung District, has been coming to An’s shop for six or seven years. "What impresses me most is that her sticky rice ice cream has kept its traditional taste without being overly sweet or heavy.
"The sticky rice is fragrant and chewy, the ice cream smooth and creamy, and the homemade dried coconut is wonderfully crispy, unlike pre-made versions. Everything blends perfectly,” he says.
During her trip to Hanoi, Thuy Trang from Ho Chi Minh City decided to visit An’s shop after seeing it recommended online. “I had never tried sticky rice ice cream before, and I was pleasantly surprised by the flavor.
"The dessert combines soft, chewy sticky rice with fragrant, creamy vanilla ice cream and lightly salted dried coconut. Enjoying it in Hanoi’s cool weather made it even more enjoyable,” she shares enthusiastically.
Although An has passed on the shop to her daughter, she still visits daily from morning until 3 p.m. “I come here every day. If I stay at home with nothing to do, I feel restless,” she says.
The shop is busiest from 12-1 p.m., 4-5 p.m., and 7-8 p.m. It typically operates from 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.