Do An Ninh and 11 friends recently completed a 14-day trek across Mongolia’s vast steppes, covering more than 2,000 kilometers by car through a range of rough terrains. There were days when they were exhausted from long bumpy rides, experiencing severe motion sickness. At night, with temperatures dropping to 0°C, the group took turns waking up to feed firewood into the stove to keep warm inside their tents.
“Though it was the most grueling trip we’ve ever taken, it was all worth it. Every time we saw endless grasslands, golden pine forests, or fairytale-like reindeer villages, all the fatigue vanished. We’d jump and shout with excitement,” Ninh recalled.
Captivated by a fairytale autumn

Ninh described how Mongolian autumn is often marked by sudden showers followed by blinding sunshine. After the rains, the vast steppe glows with alternating green and golden hues.
Golden pine forests stretch into clear blue skies. He vividly remembered the sight of horses grazing lazily on the plains, creating a peaceful and surreal landscape.
“The deeper we went, the more we felt like we were inside living paintings. There was the expansive Darkhad Valley with its mix of grasslands, forests, snowy mountains, and the blue waters of Lake Khovsgol reflecting the autumn skies.
But the most unforgettable stop was the Tsaatan reindeer village, home to Mongolia’s last nomadic reindeer herders. We ate, slept, and lived among the reindeer. It truly felt like we had stepped into a fairytale world,” Ninh shared.
Ninh spent about six months preparing for the trip - researching the itinerary, finding a local tour provider with suitable prices and services, booking flights, and more.
The Vietnamese travelers also prepped their physical endurance and, in his words, “a steely spirit.” The cost of the journey was around 50 million VND (approximately $2,050) per person.
A trip filled with challenges

To truly experience the wild beauty of the steppe, the group had to leave the comfort of paved roads for dirt and gravel tracks riddled with potholes and dust.
There were days they spent up to seven hours in the car just to reach a planned destination, often drained and nauseous. Ninh advised that travelers bring motion sickness medication from home, as it’s hard to find in Mongolia.
“Don’t expect a relaxing vacation - Mongolia isn’t a place for leisurely holidays,” he said.
Instead of staying in comfortable hotels, the group slept in traditional Ger tents. Autumn is Mongolia’s off-season, so many tourist Ger camps were closed. On some nights, they stayed in the humble tents of local nomads, sleeping on self-laid mats with sleeping bags they brought themselves.
“Most tents were heated with firewood, so we had to take turns waking up at night to feed the fire. Night temperatures were often 5°C, sometimes dropping to 0°C. Without the stove, we’d have frozen,” said Ninh.
According to Ninh, clean bathrooms were also a rare luxury. In many areas, the toilet was simply a dug-out hole. During one stay, the entire town experienced a power and water outage right in the middle of a shower.
The group had a chef traveling with them who prepared meals. Food options were limited and not very diverse. “If you love lamb, Mongolia is paradise. Unfortunately, most of us didn’t enjoy it. Luckily, our chef cooked decent food that suited our Vietnamese taste,” he added.
There weren’t many souvenirs or snacks available for purchase in Mongolia, and internet access was extremely limited. In many places, there was no signal at all.

Photos: OntheMars
“Once, when we arrived at our lodge and found there was no phone signal, we had to climb a nearby hill to catch a weak internet connection and finish some urgent work,” Ninh recounted.
Despite the difficulties and discomfort, Ninh has no regrets. Experiencing Mongolia’s wild and majestic autumn will forever remain one of his most unforgettable adventures.
Linh Trang