Hanoi’s historic center is home to some enduring favorites for bun rieu and bun oc, serving bowls rich with crab, snails, tomatoes and the distinctive tang of fermented rice vinegar.
Thu bun rieu, Tho Xuong Alley
Thu, a bun rieu shop tucked into Tho Xuong Alley near St. Joseph’s Cathedral in central Hanoi, has even appeared on CNN.
Its bowls come generously loaded with crab, fried tofu, blanched beef, snails and balut. What keeps diners coming back, however, is the unmistakable flavor of real crab.
Along with crab, the broth incorporates a moderate amount of pork bones - too much would make it taste more like pork rib noodle soup - as well as tomatoes, ground dried shrimp and fermented rice vinegar. The vinegar lends a gentle, clean acidity without becoming overly sharp, one of the bowl’s defining touches.
Co Hoan bun rieu, Hang Luoc Street
Co Hoan has been one of Hoan Kiem’s best-known and busiest bun rieu shops for years. It was once squeezed into a narrow alley but has since moved into a more spacious storefront across the street.
The broth is prized for the delicate acidity of vinegar blended with tomatoes and the mild sweetness of freshwater crab.
The traditional bowl is satisfying on its own, while the fully loaded version adds tender beef, crunchy pork ear sausage, golden fried tofu and house-made shallots fried in pork fat for an aromatic, indulgent finish.
Crab bun rieu at 11 Hang Bac Street
The bun rieu shop at 11 Hang Bac Street was recommended by French newspaper Le Figaro in 2020. Its noodles come in a deeply flavored crab broth accompanied by a variety of toppings, including snails, fried tofu, crab roe and fried spring rolls. The distinctive crab broth remains the heart of the dish.
The shop itself is quite small, yet for years it has drawn steady crowds during breakfast and lunch.
For those who prefer the traditional flavors of crab bun rieu, a few pieces of fried dough and a handful of fresh herbs are all that is needed to round out the bowl, complementing the noodles and broth as the aroma of fried shallots lingers in the air.
Ba Diec pork rib bun rieu, Nguyen Thiep Street
On Nguyen Thiep Street, a humble noodle stall known as “Ba Diec bun rieu” has become a familiar late-night dining destination for Hanoi residents.
Prices are relatively affordable compared with many eateries in the Old Quarter, while portions of both noodles and toppings are generous.
A fully loaded bowl comes with mantis shrimp, tofu, pork cartilage ribs, beef and pork ear sausage. Diners can also order extras such as crispy pork cracklings, balut and fried dough sticks. The crispy pork cracklings are kept in plastic bags for hygiene.
The stall opens from 6 p.m. until midnight.
Co Hue bun oc, Nguyen Sieu Street
Co Hue’s bun oc shop on Nguyen Sieu Street is known for staying close to traditional Hanoi flavors while offering good food at reasonable prices.
More than 35 years old, the shop has built a loyal following for its clear, delicate broth with a natural sweetness, made from snail cooking liquid, tomatoes and fermented rice vinegar. Unlike many other shops, it does not use MSG.
The snails are fragrant, rich and pleasantly crunchy. Another specialty is the shop’s snail cake, prepared according to its own recipe and particularly popular with diners.
Co Hue also serves bun oc nguoi, Hanoi’s traditional cold snail noodles. Its accompanying broth has a light orange hue, is served slightly warm and carries the subtle fragrance of fermented rice vinegar.
Giang bun oc, Luong Ngoc Quyen Street
Giang’s snail noodle stall on Luong Ngoc Quyen Street has long been a well-known place to eat in Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
The sidewalk stall once welcomed a particularly famous guest: the late chef and television host Anthony Bourdain. It also appeared in a CNN television program.
A bowl comes with an assortment of toppings including snails, pork ear sausage, beef, scallions and tomatoes. The broth is light, with a naturally gentle sourness, while both the larger stuffed snails and smaller snails are fresh, plump and satisfyingly crunchy.
Thuy bun oc, Dong Xuan Alley
Thuy’s bun oc shop in an alley by Dong Xuan Market has been around for roughly 70 years. Diners are willing to park some distance away, walk through the crowded alley and queue for a bowl because of its distinctive traditional flavor.
The shop serves both traditional bun oc and a version with green banana and tofu. Unlike many other establishments, its bowls do not include pork sausage, beef or meat patties.
The clear, full-flavored broth is simmered with pork bones. Tomatoes provide a mild acidity, while fermented glutinous rice gives the soup its characteristic aroma and tang.
The shop does not serve lime or calamansi, instead using tamarind or sau, a tart Vietnamese fruit, preserved according to the season. The owner says the acidity of lime or calamansi can overpower the distinctive fragrance of fermented rice vinegar in the bowl.
Vietnamnet.vn
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