Bun oc nguoi, a Hanoi cold snail noodle dish, wins over a Japanese YouTuber after a decade.
It wasn’t blood pudding.
It wasn’t fermented shrimp paste.
The Hanoi dish that once made a Japanese visitor hesitant - and later deeply impressed - was none other than bun oc nguoi, or cold snail noodles.
Bun oc nguoi - cold snail noodles - is a distinctive Hanoi dish. Photo: Nguyen Hue
Papaken, a Japanese content creator born in 1989 and living in Vietnam for over three years, has gained a following on YouTube for his candid, heartfelt videos on life and food in Vietnam. With over 150,000 subscribers, his channel regularly explores local culture from a foreigner’s perspective.
In one recent video, Papaken revisited a dish he first tried 10 years ago but didn't enjoy - bun oc nguoi, a lesser-known yet iconic summer delicacy in Hanoi.
"This isn’t bun dau mam tom or tiet canh," he says in the video. “It’s bun oc nguoi.”
A quest across old streets and full restaurants
Oc Co Hue restaurant on Dang Dung Street, where Papaken finally tried the dish. Photo: YouTube PAPAKEN-family
Though not as famous internationally as pho, bun cha, or bun dau, bun oc nguoi holds a quiet prestige among Hanoi’s traditional foods. Initially hoping to try it at the renowned Co Hue (Miss Hue) restaurant on Nguyen Sieu Street, Papaken was met with a packed house and had to move on.
He wandered through several streets without success until a local tip led him to a small shop on Dao Duy Tu. But once again, he was too late - the dish had sold out.
Determined not to miss out, Papaken rose early the next day and headed to Oc Co Hue on Dang Dung Street - a shop with nearly 40 years of history. Despite its modest space, the restaurant was bustling with regulars.
A warm surprise from a cool dish
Papaken enjoys the warm, tangy broth of bun oc nguoi. Photo: YouTube PAPAKEN-family
The shop is run by Bui Thi Hue (born 1968), who is the sister of the owner of Co Hue from Nguyen Sieu Street. Customers have long praised this spot for its cleanliness, flavorful broth, and plump, fresh snails. Prices range from 40,000 to 100,000 VND (around $1.60 to $4), depending on the quantity and added toppings.
As he waited for his bowl, Papaken admitted he felt both excited and slightly nervous. But with the first spoonful of broth, his face lit up: “It’s delicious!”
He described the broth as mildly sour, noticeably spicy, and pleasantly warm - neither cold nor steaming hot. Most importantly, it wasn’t fishy, a concern for many first-timers. He noted it would be especially refreshing in Hanoi’s summer heat.
“The snail meatballs are amazing. This is way better than I expected,” he said, finishing the entire bowl. He reflected that perhaps ten years ago, he simply wasn’t ready to appreciate such a nuanced dish. Now, he feels he’s finally “conquered” this classic of Hanoi cuisine.
The art of subtle flavor
Renowned Vietnamese writer Vu Bang once wrote in "Miếng ngon Hà Nội" (A taste of Hanoi) that bun oc nguoi “reaches the artistic pinnacle of Hanoi’s culinary delicacy.”
The broth is light orange, warm to the touch, and infused with the signature scent of fermented rice vinegar (giam bong). Each serving includes a separate plate of rice noodles, fresh herbs, and a bowl of snail broth filled with both small and large snails.
The dish stands out not for complexity, but for precision. The snails must be carefully selected - round, fat, and tight-lipped. After thorough cleaning, they are soaked overnight in thick rice water to release all impurities. Only then are they boiled, removed from their shells, and prepared.
The resulting broth is filtered from the boiling liquid and seasoned delicately - sour, spicy, and savory without overwhelming the senses.
Not love at first bite - even for locals
Bun oc nguoi from the popular restaurant on Nguyen Sieu Street. Photo: Nguyen Hue
Though bun oc nguoi is a long-standing part of Hanoi’s culinary landscape, it’s not instantly embraced by all - including Vietnamese. The flavor profile, texture, and temperature challenge traditional expectations of soup-based dishes.
Yet for those willing to give it a second chance, it often leaves a lasting impression.
Where to try bun oc nguoi in Hanoi
For visitors hoping to taste the real deal, locals recommend several popular spots: Co Hue on Nguyen Sieu Street, Co Bau in Tay Son Alley, Oc Co Xuan near O Quan Chuong (Quan Chuong Gate), or the shop on Phu Dong Thien Vuong Street.
Each offers its own version of this humble yet artful Hanoi classic - a dish that, for some, takes time to love, but is hard to forget.
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