Tucked between motorbike parts shops on Duong Tu Giang Street in Ho Chi Minh City, a modest sticky rice stall begins its day at 2pm. Yet long before the glass display is fully arranged, customers are already waiting.

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The sticky rice and three-color dessert stall run by Yen draws crowds of customers as soon as it opens at 2pm each day.

For nearly half a century, this small family-run business has served only two items: xoi xiem and che ba mau. Despite its simplicity, the stall has built a loyal following across generations.

The current owner, Huynh Thi Ngoc Yen, 51, inherited the business from her mother-in-law, continuing a culinary tradition that dates back to the 1970s.

A recipe passed down across borders

The story of the stall begins with an unexpected connection.

Decades ago, Yen’s mother-in-law lived near a Cambodian neighbor known for making fragrant xoi xiem. Before returning to her home country, the neighbor shared her cooking secrets.

After successfully mastering the dish, Yen’s mother-in-law began selling xoi xiem and che ba mau from her home, quickly attracting regular customers.

“When I got married, I helped my mother-in-law run the stall. Later, when she grew older, I took over the cooking and daily operations,” Yen said.

For nearly 50 years, the recipes have remained unchanged, preserving the original flavor passed down through generations.

 

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The small stall, established by Yen’s mother-in-law, serves only two dishes: xoi xiem and che ba mau.

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The stall’s signature dish is xoi xiem with ca de custard.

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A serving of xoi xiem features fragrant sticky rice at the base, topped with a rich slice of ca de and finished with coconut milk mixed with durian pulp.


The flavor that defines the stall

At the heart of the menu is xoi xiem served with coconut milk and ca de - a custard-like layer that gives the dish its signature character.

The sticky rice is made from nep ngong, a variety known for its soft, fragrant grains. Once cooked, the rice appears glossy, evenly textured and carries a distinct aroma.

But the defining element is the ca de - golden like flan, rich yet delicate in taste. Made from butter, milk, eggs and coconut milk, it is prepared using a closely guarded family recipe.

A complete portion layers hot sticky rice at the base, topped with a slice of ca de, and finished with coconut milk mixed with durian pulp. The result is a balanced combination of sweetness, creaminess and subtle richness without becoming overwhelming.

Two dishes, countless loyal customers

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A serving of xoi xiem.


Beyond xoi xiem, the stall serves just one other item: che ba mau.

The dessert combines red beans, mung beans and jelly, topped with coconut milk and ca de. It offers a layered texture - creamy, nutty and lightly sweet, with a gentle chew from the jelly.

Each portion of both dishes is priced at VND35,000 (US$1.40), making it accessible while maintaining consistent quality.

Yen prepares ingredients carefully from the night before and cooks everything fresh in the morning. By the time the stall opens in the afternoon, both sticky rice and dessert are ready to serve.

Throughout the day, the sticky rice is kept warm at a controlled temperature to maintain its texture, while the dessert is portioned in advance and assembled upon order.

A small space, a lasting connection

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The three-color dessert is also served with coconut milk and ca de, offering a creamy, lightly sweet flavor.


The stall itself is modest - part home, part kitchen - with space for only two small tables indoors. Most customers sit along the sidewalk, especially in the evening when neighboring shops close and the area opens up.

Operating daily from 2pm to 10pm, the stall sees a steady flow of takeaway orders during the day, while evenings bring diners who choose to stay and enjoy the experience.

Over the years, the customer base has grown to include long-time locals, overseas Vietnamese and even international visitors. Some have been coming since childhood.

Nguyen Thi My Nhan, 50, has been a regular for nearly four decades.

“I started eating here when I was 10. Even after all these years, I still love the flavor, especially the ca de. Whenever I pass by, I stop to buy some,” she said.

A legacy shaped by simplicity

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My Nhan said she has been eating at the stall since she was 10 and has remained a loyal customer for nearly 40 years.
 
 
 

In a city known for its dynamic food scene, where trends come and go, this small stall stands apart by doing less - and doing it well.

With only two dishes and a recipe that has barely changed in half a century, it continues to draw crowds not through novelty, but through consistency and memory.

In many ways, its enduring appeal lies not just in taste, but in the quiet continuity of a family tradition - one that has found its place in the everyday rhythm of Saigon life.

Ha Nguyen