Dave Mani, a Canadian traveler, recently arrived in Vietnam and chose Hanoi as the first destination on his journey to explore the S-shaped country.

While strolling through the Old Quarter, he came across a street vendor carrying a bamboo tray strapped to the back of her bicycle. On it were several leaf-wrapped parcels and small plastic bags filled with a thick, dark brown liquid.

Curious, Dave waved her over and decided to buy one, paying 20,000 VND (about USD 0.79).

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Dave was intrigued by the mysterious leaf-wrapped street food in Hanoi. Photo: Dave Mani

Although he had never heard of the dish before, its translucent appearance and distinctive aroma piqued his interest. The vendor kindly unwrapped the leaf, cut the cake into bite-sized pieces, and drizzled it with generous amounts of sugarcane molasses.

“I didn’t know what it was, but it was definitely sticky. The vendor poured a lot of syrup over it,” Dave described.

Upon taking the first bite, Dave paused and said the flavor was “hard to describe.” Still, he found it cool and pleasant.

“It tasted like something I’ve had before, but I couldn’t quite place it. It felt like a type of flour,” he added.

After a few more bites, the Canadian traveler admitted he likely wouldn’t buy it again, but he appreciated the opportunity to try something so unique in Hanoi.

The dish Dave tried is called banh gio (also known as banh tro, banh u tro, banh lang, or banh am, depending on the region). It’s made by soaking sticky rice in lye water (usually from burned straw or bamboo leaves), then wrapping it in dong or bamboo leaves and boiling until translucent.

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The cake has a glossy amber color and is wrapped in leaves. Photo: Dave Mani

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Dave takes a bite of the jelly-like rice cake, unsure how to describe the taste. Photo: Dave Mani
To enjoy the dish, diners drizzle or dip it in molasses so that the syrup blends with the chewy cake before eating. Photo: Thanh Kieu

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Gac-infused banh gio offers a striking color variation. Photo: Gia Trinh Bakery

Banh gio has a chewy texture, amber clarity, and a distinct herbal aroma. It's best served with sugarcane molasses for a refreshing, mildly sweet flavor.

In Hanoi, banh gio is not only a favorite local delicacy but also a popular treat for tourists to try or take home as a gift. It is available year-round and plays an essential role in traditional offerings during the first and fifteenth days of the lunar month, especially on the Doan Ngo festival.

The cake may be shaped into squares or cones in different regions, but in Hanoi, it’s usually rectangular, about the size of two fingers.

Some vendors have even innovated by adding natural red coloring from gac fruit to the rice, making the cake more visually appealing.

If you plan to visit Hanoi during Vietnam’s National Day (September 2), you can find banh gio in traditional markets such as Hang Be Market, Van Chuong Alley Market, Hom Market (at Ms. Hai’s stall), or Dong Xuan Market. It’s also sold at traditional bakeries and food shops like Van Thinh, Co Hanh’s sticky rice cakes, or Gia Trinh Bakery.

Additionally, mobile street vendors selling wrapped cakes like banh gio, banh nep, and banh gai often include banh gio in their offerings, especially during lunar holidays and local festivals.

Thao Trinh