These 200-meter-long passages are packed with food stalls offering a wide variety of dishes that won’t break the bank. With just 100,000 VND (approximately $4), visitors can indulge in a delicious array of local flavors.

Dong Xuan Alley

Nestled in the Hoan Kiem district of Hanoi, Dong Xuan Alley is affectionately known as a "food paradise" in the heart of the Old Quarter.

Despite its modest length of just 200 meters, this alley is home to dozens of stalls serving an array of dishes, from shrimp cakes and snail noodles to grilled pork skewers and sweet desserts. Prices here are surprisingly low, with a full meal often costing just a few dollars.

Situated adjacent to the Dong Xuan Market, the alley is narrow and bustling with activity. At the entrance, a popular shrimp cake stall draws in crowds with its crispy, golden-brown treats.

The batter, made from a mix of wheat flour, tapioca starch, eggs, and turmeric, is whisked to a smooth consistency before being combined with hand-cut sweet potato strips for added sweetness and texture.

The shrimp, selected with care, retain their freshness and tenderness after frying. Each shrimp cake is served with a tangy dipping sauce, pickled papaya and carrot salad, and fresh herbs, all for just 13,000 VND (about $0.50).

Further down the alley, visitors can find a variety of noodle stalls, including the famous Bún Ốc Thúy (Ms. Thuy’s Snail Noodle Soup), a shop that has been around for nearly 70 years. This tiny, 15-square-meter space is always packed, with customers often queuing outside.

The shop offers two main dishes: traditional snail noodle soup and snail noodle soup with tofu and banana. The clear, savory broth is made from pork bones, with a light tanginess derived from tomatoes and a hint of rice vinegar. Instead of serving lime or kumquat, the shop uses tamarind or sấu (a Vietnamese fruit) for a unique sourness that complements the dish.

Prices for a bowl of noodles range from 40,000 to 50,000 VND ($1.70 to $2.10), depending on the choice of snails, tofu, or banana. The shop operates from 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM.

The aroma of grilled pork skewers also fills the air in Dong Xuan Alley, where vendors use bamboo sticks instead of metal grills to impart a unique smoky flavor to the meat.

After enjoying a savory meal, diners can finish with a sweet treat at Bà Liên’s (Mrs. Lien) dessert stall, which has been a fixture for over 30 years. The stall offers nearly 20 varieties of chè (Vietnamese sweet soups) for around 20,000 VND ($0.80) per serving.

At the end of the alley, near Cau Dong Street, you’ll find Mrs. Vu Thi Tuoi’s roadside stall, where she serves fresh, steaming crabs straight from the pot. Her stall, open from 9:30 AM, is busiest between 11 AM and 1 PM. Visitors rave about the fresh crabs and the affordable prices, as well as her tangy dipping sauce that perfectly complements the seafood.

Trung Yen Alley

Trung Yen Alley, located in the Hoan Kiem district, is another culinary hotspot in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. This narrow, 200-meter alley connects Dinh Liet Street to the former Hang Be Market and is lined with long-established eateries that are popular among locals and tourists alike.

One of the most famous spots here is Phở Sướng, located at the Dinh Liet entrance of the alley. For over 30 years, the descendants of Mrs. Ty, the original owner known for her “Phở Cụ Tàu Áo Xanh,” have been serving up steaming bowls of pho, with a broth simmered from beef bones for 14 to 15 hours.

The soup is seasoned with ginger and fish sauce, without the addition of spices like cinnamon or star anise. A bowl of pho here ranges from 55,000 to 80,000 VND ($2.30 to $3.30).

Further down the alley, Bún Ngan Nhàn (Mrs. Nhan’s duck noodle soup) is another popular destination, despite its infamy on social media for the owner’s gruff demeanor.

The noodle soup, made with duck meat, is rich and flavorful, with the broth steeped from duck bones and dried mushrooms. The tender duck meat is served with bamboo shoots that have been simmered to perfection, creating a harmonious blend of textures and flavors.

Nearby, Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si offers a unique take on fish noodles, featuring fish rolls made from minced fish and wood ear mushrooms, wrapped in a layer of tender fish fillet and deep-fried until golden and crispy. The soup’s tangy broth is made from fish bones, pineapple, and tomatoes, providing a refreshing contrast to the rich, savory fish rolls.

A bowl of bún cá costs around 40,000 to 50,000 VND ($1.70 to $2.10), and the shop also offers other variations like dry fish noodles, fish pho, and fish noodle soup with flat rice noodles.

These two small but mighty alleys in Hanoi are a testament to the city’s vibrant street food culture, where delicious meals can be enjoyed without breaking the bank.

Linh Trang