Japanese tourists Kana and Ken were recently in Hanoi for a five-day trip, eager to explore the local cuisine. Among all the dishes they sampled, one modest street snack stood out: bánh trôi tàu.

Despite its humble setting on the sidewalk, the dessert drew a crowd of locals and tourists alike, many choosing to eat right there or take it to go. For just 25,000 VND (approx. $1), they enjoyed a bowl of this sweet, warming delicacy.

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Bánh trôi tàu is a simple yet soul-warming winter dessert in Hanoi. Photo: Hoang Hieu

Bánh trôi tàu is a traditional winter treat in Hanoi, beloved for generations. It consists of soft, round glutinous rice dumplings served in a warm ginger syrup. The dumplings are filled with either mung bean or black sesame paste, offering a comforting blend of sweet and spicy flavors.

Kana and Ken discovered the dish at a popular street stall on Hang Dieu Street, a well-known spot for traditional Vietnamese desserts. The stall serves hot desserts in winter and cold ones in summer.

Their portion included three dumplings, each plump and glossy. Kana, intrigued by its appearance, initially likened it to Korean rice cake soup, noting its resemblance to "ginger soup with rice cakes." But upon tasting it, she found the experience reminiscent of a dessert she once had in Hong Kongm (China) - yet softer, gentler, and easier to enjoy.

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Kana and her partner Ken trying bánh trôi tàu on the sidewalk in Hanoi.

Kana noted the glutinous rice shell was smooth, chewy, and slightly sticky, while the mung bean filling was rich, nutty, and unique in flavor. She especially loved the warming sensation from the hot ginger syrup, which helped chase away the winter chill.

Ken, too, was captivated - particularly by the black sesame dumpling. He admitted he was initially unsure what the dark filling was, but after one bite, he was hooked. “This is the first dish in Vietnam that has truly surprised me,” he said. “Can this be made at home?” he wondered aloud after finishing.

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A 25,000 VND serving of bánh trôi tàu enjoyed by the Japanese couple.

The couple agreed the dish was both affordable and comforting, and a must-try for anyone visiting Hanoi in winter.

According to Mrs. Bich, the stall owner, her bánh trôi tàu shop has operated on Hang Dieu Street for over 10 years, specializing in seasonal sweet soups. During the winter, bánh trôi tàu becomes the bestseller.

She explained that the dumplings are made from glutinous rice flour, with fillings of mung beans or black sesame, and are cooked in a syrup made from cane sugar and old ginger, topped with grated coconut and crushed peanuts for extra flavor and texture.

Each bowl typically includes three dumplings - round ones filled with mung bean and elongated ones filled with black sesame. The dumplings are freshly made and served hot throughout the day.

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Kana's eyes widened in amazement as she tasted the ginger syrup served with bánh trôi tàu.

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Bánh trôi tàu is not just food - it’s a slow, sensory experience best enjoyed bite by bite. Photo: Hoang Hieu

“This isn’t a meal to fill you up,” Mrs. Bich explained. “It’s a delicacy to savor slowly - slice a dumpling gently, then sip the ginger syrup for the full experience.”
Thao Trinh