Choi Jongrak is a Korean content creator and co-owner of a YouTube channel with over one million subscribers.

After more than six years in Vietnam, he has sampled countless dishes and regional specialties across the country.

Recently, he introduced three Vietnamese dishes that he considers “challenging” for foreigners: lau mam from the Mekong Delta, dried squid fried with fish sauce, butter and garlic, and pork braised with fermented shrimp paste.

He said that for first-timers, these dishes can be shocking, but once they get used to them, they often become addicted.

Among the three dishes, Jongrak’s favorite is lau mam, a dish he “criticized the first time but loved by the second.”

He recommended an old lau mam restaurant on Nguyen Van Dau Street in Binh Loi Trung Ward, Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Ward 11, Binh Thanh District).

It is the lẩu mắm restaurant owned by Ba Huong, also called Ba Hai, who has operated it since 1976.

From the main road, diners who are unfamiliar with the area may struggle to find the small signboard tucked high above without lighting.

Despite its hidden location, the shop remains crowded because of its fragrant, consistent flavor over time.

The restaurant sits on the second floor, requiring diners to climb a tiny, narrow spiral staircase.

According to Jongrak, as soon as diners reach the staircase, they can already smell the signature aroma of lau mam.

Each hotpot costs roughly VND300,000 (about $12), including broth and accompaniments such as catfish, pork belly, squid or octopus, shrimp, eggplant and fresh vegetables like water lily stems, bitter leaves, bean sprouts and theo leo greens.

Jongrak remarked that if bún mắm is for beginners, then lau mam is for diners with more experience.

He described the broth as spicy, sweet and salty all at once.

The recipe for the hotpot has been preserved by Ba Huong for nearly half a century.

Watching the pot bubbling vigorously, Jongrak repeatedly exclaimed that he was craving it and “couldn’t resist.”

True to its name, the main ingredient of lau mam is fermented fish.

The fish is cooked until it falls apart, the bones strained out, and the broth simmered with fresh coconut water, minced lemongrass and seasoning to eliminate harsh odors and create a fragrant aroma.

Because the preparation is meticulous and well balanced, the broth is rich but not overwhelmingly salty or intensely sharp as some may assume.

When enjoying the dish, diners can taste the savory depth of the broth, the richness of the fish and pork and the crisp freshness of the vegetables.

Everything blends to create a compelling flavor.

“It was absolutely worth finding this place,” Jongrak affirmed.

He recalled that during his first try, he struggled with the pungent smell of fermented fish, but over time, the dish grew on him and became something he loved.

The restaurant is highly praised by diners on social media.

Despite its modest size, it feels warm and familiar, with friendly and welcoming owners.

Its downsides are that it can be hard to locate and lacks convenient parking.

After finishing the lau mam, the Korean guest headed to a street stall selling fried dried squid with fish sauce on Nguyen Du Street, near Saigon Notre-Dame Cathedral.

The stall has recently become extremely popular, with long lines of customers each evening.

The dish is made from dried squid, releasing an irresistible aroma with buttery richness and a sweet, nutty squid flavor.

Depending on the portion, the dish costs VND100,000, 120,000 or 160,000 ($4–6.5).

Jongrak said the flavor is truly delicious, reminiscent of garlic-butter stir-fried snails.

Regarding pork braised with fermented shrimp paste, he admitted that he still has not fully gotten used to it, even after trying mắm ruốc several times.

He believes this dish is particularly challenging for foreign diners.

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Jongrak enjoying lau mam in Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: HanQuocBros.

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The narrow spiral staircase leading to the second-floor restaurant. Photo: HanQuocBros.

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The preserved half-century lau mam recipe of Ba Huong. Photo: HanQuocBros.

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Photo: HanQuocBros

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The lau mam restaurant beloved by diners. Photo: Eat with Constance.D.

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Fried dried squid with fish sauce, butter and garlic. Photo: Ha Nguyen.
Linh Trang