Aleana and her brother, tourists from New Zealand, recently spent four days and three nights exploring Hanoi. Alongside sightseeing, they eagerly sampled the city’s iconic street foods such as bun cha, banh cuon, bun rieu, pho cuon, ga tan, and pho with wine sauce.

Among all the local treats, one dish stood out to them: “xoi ma dao”, or pink cheek sticky rice - a hearty, flavorful dish that they said was perfect for cooler weather.

A hidden gem with a bold flavor

To try this dish, Aleana and her brother sought out a popular sticky rice stall located deep within a long, narrow alley on Bach Dang Street.

Though open for just over four years, the eatery has become a favorite among locals and visitors alike for its famed xoi ma dao.

Upon arriving, the tourists were surprised to find a bright and airy outdoor space behind the tight 15-meter alleyway that barely allows one person to pass through.

Around a dozen plastic tables and chairs were set up outside, giving off a relaxed, everyday charm typical of Vietnamese street food culture.

After browsing the menu, Aleana and her brother ordered two full servings of xoi ma dao, each priced at 55,000 VND (approx. $2.25 USD).

When the food arrived, Aleana couldn’t hide her excitement over the generous portions and mouthwatering presentation.

The dish included sticky rice, slices of cha (Vietnamese sausage), thinly cut lap xuong (Chinese sausage), pâté, soft-boiled egg, fresh cilantro, crispy shallots, pickled cucumber, and a side of rich, savory meat sauce.

But the star of the show was the ma dao pork cheek, a tender and flavorful cut that’s become the signature of the dish.

“The food came almost instantly. The owner even brought over a tray of beautifully cooked soft-boiled eggs just for us to see,” Aleana recalled.

She jokingly said, “It felt like meat was the main ingredient, not the sticky rice!”

Amazed by the texture, she took her first bite and exclaimed that the pork cheek was unbelievably soft and juicy.

“This dish is a paradise for meat lovers,” she added. “And the side of meat sauce was rich, fragrant, and had just the right amount of spice.”

She also appreciated the quality of every element in the dish. The sticky rice was perfectly chewy, the pâté rich and creamy, and the sausage flavorful. “The flavor just exploded in my mouth - it was like a party of different tastes,” she said.

Her brother was especially fascinated by the soft-boiled egg, calling it the most striking ingredient. “I’ve seen fried eggs with white outer layers, but never this golden, glossy yolk,” he shared, clearly impressed.

At the end of the meal, Aleana admitted the dish was so hearty that she was “completely stuffed.”

The secret lies in the pork cheek

Speaking with reporters, Ho Van Hoa (69) - the owner of the xoi ma dao stall - explained that the dish is always served with a variety of ingredients, but the pork cheek is the most sought-after.

Because each pig only yields a small amount of this cut - just a few hundred grams - Hoa limits the number of portions sold daily.

“The cheek meat has soft tendons and is much less greasy than other fatty cuts, so customers really love it,” he said.

Hoa shared that the pork cheek is marinated with over 17 ingredients and spices, but he intentionally avoids using fish sauce, which can overpower the meat’s natural sweetness and the aroma of other spices.

Instead, diners will detect subtle notes of honey, five-spice powder, oyster sauce, tomato, and herbs like star anise and basil.

Another standout component is the soft-boiled egg, praised for its consistent quality. Hoa even uses fresh turmeric to enhance the egg’s golden color.

“Although it seems simple, frying eggs like this takes real skill. I use high-quality eggs to make sure the yolk doesn’t break. First, I add the egg white, then gently slide in the yolk. You have to be careful or it’ll ruin the look,” Hoa revealed.

Each portion at the stall is priced from 20,000 VND (approx. $0.82 USD) for a smaller serving with two toppings, up to 55,000 VND (approx. $2.25 USD) for the full xoi ma dao set. Customers can mix and match toppings based on preference.