Operating since 1958, a small banh mi shop in HCM City has continued attracting large crowds of diners for nearly seven decades, with customers lining up every morning to enjoy its signature dishes.
A banh mi shop nearly 70 years old
Early in the morning, Ngoc Anh, 63, and her relatives visited their familiar banh mi shop on Cao Thang Street in Hoa Hung Ward, HCM City, for breakfast. She has been a loyal customer there for more than 40 years.
The eatery has a modest space. Besides a glass display cabinet filled with ingredients, the shop only has room for a few small stainless steel tables. Despite its size, the restaurant is always crowded and every table is usually occupied.
Customers arriving later often have to stand in line waiting for service, prompting many to order takeaway instead.
Every morning, large numbers of customers gather to wait for and enjoy the banh mi pan dishes.
Every morning, large numbers of customers gather to wait for and enjoy the banh mi pan dishes.
Nguyen Dinh Dung, 50, the owner of the restaurant, said his family’s banh mi shop first opened in 1958 and has now been passed down through three generations, with him representing the third.
Originally, the shop was opened by his grandparents, northern migrants who settled in HCMC and sold banh mi on Phan Dinh Phung Street, now Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street. In 1960, the business moved to its current location on Cao Thang Street.
“The shop is called Hoa Ma banh mi, named after a village on the outskirts of Hanoi. I inherited the business from my family and still keep the flavors from the old days. The bread and ingredients are all carefully selected. Most of our customers are loyal regulars who have been eating here since my parents’ generation,” Dung shared.
The restaurant gets so crowded that many customers have to stand and wait for their turn.
The restaurant gets so crowded that many customers have to stand and wait for their turn.
The restaurant serves two main dishes: stuffed banh mi sandwiches and banh mi op-la (Vietnamese bread and eggs skillet) with assorted toppings. The sandwich version uses a large loaf spread with butter and pate, then filled with Vietnamese pork sausage, cinnamon pork sausage and ham.
The sandwich is served with pickled carrots, daikon and scallions. Each portion costs VND42,000 ($1.60).
Inside the sandwich are Vietnamese pork sausage, cinnamon pork sausage and ham.
Bringing back memories of youth
Inside the sandwich are Vietnamese pork sausage, cinnamon pork sausage and ham.
The restaurant’s signature specialty is its banh mi op-la, priced between VND62,000-64,000 ($2.40-$2.50) per serving. The bread is served separately on a plate, while the toppings are cooked in a small pan.
Inside the pan are two fried eggs, ham, pork sausage, cinnamon pork sausage, sausage and salted pork belly. The ingredients are pan-fried until slightly crisp around the edges and served with onions.
Depending on personal taste, customers can add salt, pepper or chili sauce for extra flavor. The dish also comes with pickled carrots and daikon to balance the richness of the fried ingredients.
The banh mi op-la features fried eggs, ham, pork sausage, cinnamon pork sausage, sausage and salted pork belly cooked together in a small pan.
The Vietnamese bread and eggs skillet features fried eggs, ham, pork sausage, cinnamon pork sausage, sausage and salted pork belly cooked together in a small pan.
Many diners say the bread has a crispy crust, soft interior and balanced flavor. The accompanying ingredients are also praised for being fresh and well-seasoned.
A female customer living near the restaurant said the shop is crowded not only on weekends but also on weekdays. On weekends, many families come to enjoy the traditional banh mi flavors together.
“The restaurant opens daily from 6am to 11am, but my family usually comes for breakfast on weekends. It gets extremely crowded, so you have to arrive early to get a seat. Right now, the shop uses baguette-style bread. I especially love the pate and lemongrass sausage. Both are homemade and have a distinctive flavor that’s hard to find elsewhere,” she said.
Sharing the same sentiment, Ngoc Anh said that although she has eaten at the shop for more than 40 years, she still loves its flavors. For her, every visit feels like returning to her youth.
Ngoc Anh has been a loyal customer at the restaurant for more than 40 years. Photos: Ha Nguyen
Ngoc Anh has been a loyal customer at the restaurant for more than 40 years.
Dung added: “Besides local customers, we also welcome many foreign visitors, especially overseas Vietnamese. Whenever they return to Vietnam, they often stop by the shop for banh mi to relive old memories. Nowadays, we also receive many young customers. Most come in groups and discover the restaurant through newspapers and social media.”
According to Dung, in 2023 Hoa Ma banh mi shop was recognized by the Vietnam Records Organization (VietKings) as one of the top 10 famous and long-standing banh mi brands operating for more than 50 years in Saigon-HCMC.
Vietnamnet.vn
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