In early June, a small eatery in Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi, specializing in canh ca ro - a traditional fish soup from Hung Yen Province - was named in the Michelin Selected list for 2025.

Mistook Michelin invitation for a scam

More than three weeks after being featured in the Michelin Selected list, the restaurant run by Nguyen Thi Tuyen (34) and her husband Nguyen Van Hieu (36), both from Hung Yen, has become noticeably busier.

Many foreign diners now seek out the shop, even though canh ca ro isn't as widely recognized or popular in Hanoi as dishes like pho or bun cha.

“Lately, we've had more international guests. Communication can be tricky through smartphone apps, but I’m thrilled. I always try to explain that canh ca ro is a specialty from my hometown, Hung Yen,” Tuyen shared.

Regulars who came to eat were quick to offer congratulations to the owner.

Tuyen told VietNamNet that back in May, she received an invitation from Michelin stating that her restaurant had been selected and inviting her to confirm attendance at the announcement event in Da Nang.

Unfamiliar with Michelin, she consulted a relative, who warned her to be cautious of scams. Tuyen tucked the invitation away in a drawer, assuming it was fraudulent.

A week or two later, she came across articles online about the Michelin awards. Recognizing the name, she retrieved the letter. Finding a phone number on it, she contacted the sender to learn more.

“I messaged the number on Zalo. The person confirmed our restaurant had been selected and would be announced on June 5. We were welcome to attend the event in Da Nang.

Even then, I wasn’t convinced. Our place is so small – how could we be chosen for such an honor? That’s why I didn’t go. Looking back, I feel a little regret,” she admitted.

Only after the announcement, when loyal customers congratulated her, did she realize her restaurant had genuinely been recognized by Michelin. “Turns out, the letter wasn’t a scam,” she laughed.

Tuyen said she’s not sure when Michelin inspectors visited her restaurant or exactly why it was selected. “Since we opened, my husband and I have always tried our best,” she said.

Bringing Hung Yen flavors to Hanoi

Tuyen shared that her in-laws were in the food business, running a pan-fried bread shop. They later handed it over to the couple.

In 2018, they opened a new location on Hai Ba Trung Street in Hoan Kiem District. Noticing that their clientele – mainly office workers and older residents – didn’t favor pan-fried bread, Tuyen proposed trying canh ca ro.

Along with bun thang luon Pho Hien, canh ca ro dong is a rustic yet delicious specialty of Hung Yen.

Encouraged by her husband, Tuyen sought help from her sister to learn the recipe and find ingredient suppliers.

“We used to use wild ca ro dong from our hometown, but now we use farm-raised fish. I usually buy large-sized fish, about the size of three fingers, from My Duc or Hai Duong. They’re firmer than tilapia and have better texture,” she said.

Every day starting at 4 a.m., the staff receives fresh fish, cleans and parboils them, then debones and fillets. Tuyen herself marinates the fish in a blend of turmeric, ginger, pepper, fish sauce, salt, and seasoning powder for 15-20 minutes before pan-frying.

“Initially, we use high heat to dry the fish. Then we reduce it so the outside is crispy but the inside remains moist and intact,” she said. “The fish must be sold the same day. It becomes tough and dry if kept overnight.”

The crispy golden fish fillets with tender, flavorful interiors are the secret to the restaurant’s popularity.

The broth is simmered for 10-12 hours using only fish bones – no pork or chicken. In addition to ca ro bones, she adds about 44 pounds of other fish bones, like tilapia and snakehead.

The broth must be kept at a gentle simmer to stay clear. All bones are cleaned, blanched, and cooked with ginger and turmeric to remove odors.

The broth is the soul of the dish.

Customers can choose to pair canh ca ro with white rice noodles, red rice noodles, or thicker vermicelli. The noodles are slightly thicker than usual and are made by hand.

“When customers order, the noodles are blanched in hot water before the broth is poured. We also get many takeaway orders, so I carefully select noodles that don’t clump,” Tuyen explained.

Tuyen prides herself on being meticulous in selecting ingredients.

Each bowl also includes cai la mo (a spicy, slightly bitter leafy green), dill, scallions, and fresh herbs. Condiments like chili paste, garlic, calamansi, and fresh chili are available for added flavor.

Cai la mo pairs perfectly with canh ca ro.

Each bowl of canh ca ro costs between $1.57 and $2.36.

“Running a food business is exhausting – no days off. But every time someone compliments the soup or asks about its origins, it makes me happy,” Tuyen said.

The restaurant already had a loyal customer base even before the Michelin recognition.

It opens from 6 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., with peak hours from 7-8:30 a.m. and 11 a.m.-1 p.m. The indoor area accommodates around 40 guests, with seating for another 30 on the sidewalk.

Besides Tuyen and her husband, the team includes six full-time employees and three part-timers.

“The more customers we have, the more effort I put in to make sure they remember the taste of Hung Yen’s specialty,” she said.

Tuyen emphasized that the restaurant will not raise prices or change its service just because it received Michelin recognition.

Linh Trang