Made with countryside fish, fresh coconut water and “free” wild vegetables, Ca Mau’s signature lau mam keeps travelers coming back for its deep, balanced taste.
At Vietnam’s southern tip, Ca Mau is home to a well-known specialty dish that is made from inexpensive ingredients-local fish, field shrimp, and “sky-given” wild greens-yet remains irresistible in both appearance and flavor, leaving diners thinking about it long after the meal.
Lau mam U Minh, a famous specialty of Ca Mau. Photo: Page Ca Mau
When visiting Ca Mau, travelers are often introduced by tour guides or local residents to a familiar line: “U Minh’s forest land has the finest produce/ First honey, then fermented fish-once it touches your tongue, you’ll remember it forever.”
Among the dishes that best showcase the rich bounty of U Minh is lau mam, a fermented-fish hotpot. While lau mam can be found across many Mekong Delta provinces, the U Minh version has its own distinctive character, drawing visitors from near and far.
In late 2022, lau mam U Minh (Ca Mau Province) was named one of 11 Vietnamese specialties recognized by the Asia Book of Records for its culinary value in Asia. Before that, it was also listed among Vietnam’s top 100 signature specialty dishes.
Lau mam U Minh is a harmonious mix of ingredients such as fermented fish paste, various freshwater fish, fresh coconut water, and a wide assortment of wild vegetables that grow naturally in the lush U Minh forests.
“The ingredients for lau mam U Minh aren’t expensive. Some can even be foraged from fields or along riverbanks and ponds, without spending a single dong. But through the locals’ skillful and balanced combination, the dish becomes appealing in both presentation and taste.
U Minh fermented fish hotpot is a rich harmony of diverse ingredients. Photo: Ca Mau Page
“It’s a must-try for anyone visiting Ca Mau,” said Trung Anh, a tour guide specializing in Mekong Delta itineraries.
The best lau mam U Minh is made with mam ca sac buom, a fermented paste from snake-skin gourami, a freshwater fish commonly found in rice fields, ponds, and ditches. The fish is small and bony, but its flesh is firm and naturally sweet, and once fermented it develops a distinctive aroma. If mam ca sac buom is unavailable, other freshwater fermented fish such as mam ca linh or mam ca loc can also be used to create the famed hotpot.
The fermented fish is simmered until the flesh breaks down, then strained to remove bones. Fresh coconut water is added, along with finely chopped lemongrass and seasonings to reduce any fishy notes and build fragrance. Locals use coconut water to give the broth a gentle sweetness and a pleasant aroma.
Some also add sugar or fresh milk to make the broth more fragrant, richer, and slightly creamy. Thanks to the careful, balanced preparation, the hotpot broth is deeply flavorful without being “salty-bitter, salty-astringent” as many people might imagine from the dish’s nickname.
What goes into the hotpot includes countryside catches such as snakehead fish, climbing perch, white catfish, eel, giant freshwater prawns, and clams-typically caught locally or bought at the market and cleaned at home. These are common rural aquatic products from brackish-water areas, and they are not expensive.
The Mekong Delta’s wild vegetables. Photo: Ngoai Ty/Linh Trang
Dishes served with fermented fish hotpot are remarkably diverse. Photo: Huynh Hong Dao
No pot of lau mam U Minh is complete without the wild field and forest greens that often grow naturally in the fertile U Minh region, such as dot choai (fern shoots), bong sung (water lily stems/flowers), dien dien blossoms, rau dang (bitter herb), bong so dua flowers, water chives, and nan bop, among others. These greens are not only colorful but also bring a full spectrum of tastes-sour, astringent, bitter, nutty-blended into a balanced whole.
Dot choai, for instance, is an unfamiliar name to many visitors from northern and central Vietnam, yet it grows abundantly in the rainy season across forests and uncultivated land in the Mekong Delta. It has a naturally delicate sweetness, and its texture feels slick and crisp, much like okra.
Dien dien is another plant that requires no care. Its flowers bloom in bright yellow clusters, often opening from late night into the morning. The flavor is distinctive: slightly bitter at first, but when chewed slowly it reveals an intertwined, mildly sweet and nutty note.
When enjoying lau mam, diners experience the savory, rich broth, the natural sweetness of freshwater fish, and the fresh crunch of vibrant greens. Together, they create a deeply appealing taste.
Today, lau mam U Minh also appears on menus at many restaurants in major cities across Vietnam’s three regions, where it continues to be widely loved.
Vietnamnet.vn
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